I bet this isn’t your mama’s hash. Certainly not my mom’s hodgepodge of leftovers and pragmatic whatnots, an impromptu mix of last night’s meat scraps and vegetables from the bin.
French-born Executive Chef Yvon Goetz creates a hash of an entirely different sort. Served as a brunch entrée at The Winery Restaurant & Wine Bar on the waterfront in Newport Beach, Goetz’ well-planned hash boasts flavors that are perfectly balanced, as well as a mingling of textures that make for welcome contrasts.
WATCH THE VIDEO: His Zinfandel braised beef short ribs are cooked classically – long, slow, moist heat yields them alluringly tender. They team with fingerling potatoes, wild mushrooms, grilled asparagus and fresh herbs. Napping each element is the reduced and strained braising juice. The finale is the addition of a sunny-side up egg. Superb.
Sunday Brunch is served from 11AM to 2 PM at The Winery Restaurant & Wine Bar in Newport Beach, 3131 West Pacific Coast Highway, Newport Beach. Reservations recommended. 949-999-6622. Also try the Crème Brulee French Toast.
Chef’s loves the shape of a tourne knife. The blade is curved like a bird’s beak. In French kitchens it is used for “tourneeing” root vegetables (skillfully making them into little football shapes). The knife is great for peeling vegetables and fruit.
Want to know more about Chef Yvon? Or see other stories that I have written about OC restaurants? Go to the Orange Coast Magazine’s Website http://www.orangecoast.com/cathy-thomas-friends/
Zinfandel Braised Short Ribs, Wild Mushroom & Fingerling Potato Hash
Yield: 8 servings
4 (14-ounce) beef short ribs (bone-in or a smaller amount of boneless meat)
Coarse salt and ground pepper to taste
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon oil (canola combined with olive oil)
1 cup large onion, peeled and diced
1/4 cup (white and light green portion) leeks, diced
1 cup peeled and diced carrots or cut into 3/4-inch chunks
2 stalks celery, diced or cut into 3/4-inch chunks
5 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 bottle Zinfandel or other full-bodied red wine
1 quart veal stock (sodium-reduced beef broth can be substituted)
1 teaspoon black peppercorn, crushed
1 bay leaf
1 sprig fresh thyme
Hash Assembly:
16 ounces cooked short ribs
1 cup stained and reduced braising liquid, plus more if needed
1 bunch green asparagus, grilled or roasted, cut into 1-inch pieces, plus more left whole for garnish
2 cups chopped mixed wild mushrooms ( or sliced button mushrooms), sautéed in butter, garlic, salt and pepper
2 cups fingerling potatoes, oven roasted with little oil, salt and pepper, cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces
About 3 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
Canola oil
8 large eggs, fried sunny-side up
1. Braising Meat: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Season meat with salt, pepper; dust with flour, shaking off the excess. Heat oil in large skillet on medium high heat and sear the short ribs, turning as needed to deeply brown each side. Remove meat. Reduce heat to medium; add onion, leeks, carrots, celery and garlic in the remaining oil and cook about 4 minutes, tossing as needed. Add the tomato paste and toss to coat; cook about 1 minute and add wine. Turn heat to high and reduce in volume by 1/2 to 2/3. Add veal stock (or broth) and bring to boil; add black peppercorns, bay leaf, bay leaf and thyme. Place meat in ovenproof casserole. Pour the red wine mixture over meat. Cover and cook in preheated oven for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, or until meat is very tender. When cooked, remove the meat from the stock, strain the stock in a fine mesh strainer and reduce on medium-high heat until syrupy.
2. Cut meat into bite-sized cubes and heat up in the braising liquid in a saucepan. In a large deep skillet, heat asparagus (put garnish aside), mushrooms and potatoes in butter. Season with salt and pepper. Add meat mixture and chopped chives. Make sure the mixture is not too dry. Transfer servings to shallow bowls or small individual cast iron skillets. Top each with one or two fried eggs and if desired, two asparagus spears. The dish can be served with a side salad if desired.
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