Chef Shin Toyoda Perfects Sushi Roku’s Poke

Uncategorized By Apr 01, 2016

Shin Toyoda, head sushi chef at Sushi Roku in Newport Beach (Fashion Island), isn’t a matchmaker. Yet he knows of five couples who met while eating his sushi, twosomes who later married.

I imagine that the taste and appearance of his tantalizing fare inspired the strangers to chat, mentioning the refinement of flavors and the alluring texture contrasts, the colors and yes, the wow.


Understandable how guests could fall in love at his sushi bar. Patrons, no doubt, with discerning palates.

His poke (pronounced POH-kay) is an irresistible dish.

The concoction has Hawaiian roots, but has become a very popular dish in Japan. It showcases jewel-like cubes of chilled raw  tuna napped with a delectable Asian-themed sauce.

Chef Toyoda builds on the basics, adding just-right ingredients that bring judicious spicy heat and appealing crunch, along with a worthy dose of umami. Flavor bling.


Sushi Starts: He trained in Tokyo before coming to the U.S. 30 years ago. He says that he is still training, revealing that learning never seems to be finished.

Homework: He lives in Redondo Beach and often spends his days off fishing in a sea kayak. Catch and release, the fun is more about relaxing and having time to think, rather than filling the fridge.

Roll Ups: Sushi rolls aren’t popular in Japan. He says that rice on the outside of those rolls doesn’t show the proper respect for the fish. Sushi hand rolls are preferred in his homeland.

Sushi Roku’s Tuna Poke
Yield: 2 generous servings
3 1/2 cups cubed (5/8-inch) sushi-grade big-eye tuna fillet (or ahi, yellowfin tuna or bluefin tuna)
1/2 cup Asian-style roasted sesame oil, plus 1 tablespoon, divided use
1/4 cup tamari, see cook’s notes
Chili oil to taste
About 1/4 cup drained sansai vegetables, see cook’s notes
About 1/4 cup ogonori (edible seaweed)
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds
1/2 teaspoon wasabi paste
1 tablespoon golden tobiko (flying fish eggs)
Small amount of black lava salt to taste
Small amount of shichimi pepper to taste (also called togarashi)
About 5 cups cooked rice (white or brown), room temperature
Garnish: tiny spherical rice crackers (bubu arare)
Garnish: sliced dry nori (kizami nori)
Cook’s notes: Tamari is a type of soy sauce that is richer and thicker; most often it contains little or no wheat. Sansai vegetables are Japanese “mountain vegetables” that are often sold pre-cooked and typically are packaged in plastic packs in liquid at Japanese markets.
JAPANESE MARKETS: Mitsuwa, as well as Tokyo Central Market (formerly Marukai) – both in Costa Mesa, are two Japanese supermarkets in Orange County.
1. Place fish in a nonreactive bowl (glass or ceramic); drizzle with 1 tablespoon sesame oil. Toss.
2. In a separate bowl, combine 1/2 cup sesame oil, tamari and enough chili oil to make the mixture a little spicy but not overpowering in heat. Stir to combine. Drizzle fish with about 3 tablespoons of mixture; gently toss. Cover and refrigerate 30 minutes.
3. Remove fish mixture from refrigerator. Add sansei vegetables, ogonori, sesame seeds, wasabi, tobiko, lava salt and shichimi pepper; toss. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
4. Divide rice between two bowls. Top with poke mixture. Sprinkle with rice crackers. Mound the kizami nori in the center of each. Serve.
Source: Shin Toyoda, head sushi chef, Sushi Roku, Newport Beach

Thank you, as always, to CURT NORRIS, for videos and photos.

COOK’S VISUALS: What does it look like?

Sansai vegetables (often sold in plastic bags with liquid)




(above in cylindrical shaker) shichimi pepper (also called togarashi)

(below) kizami nori




Here’s a quick tip from Melissa’s! Asparagus and cheese are a marriage made in food heaven. Roast asparagus topped with crunchy Parmesan cheese is a favorite.


Roasted Asparagus with Crunchy Parmesan

Yield: 4 servings
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 bunches medium-sized asparagus, tough bottom portion of stems trimmed off
Coarse salt, such as kosher, to taste (about 1/2 teaspoon)
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese or Grana Padano cheese
1. Adjust one oven rack to bottom position, the other rack to a position about 6 inches below broiler element. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Spread asparagus out on large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with oil. Use clean hands to roll asparagus in oil to coat the entire surface. Arrange so that asparagus is in a single layer. Sprinkle with salt. Roast on bottom rack until tender-crisp, about 6 to 7 minutes.
2. Remove from oven and turn on broiler. Top asparagus with the cheese; place on top rack in oven over the broiler. Broil until cheese is browned and asparagus is tender but not squishy.

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