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Santanna Salas, executive pastry chef at Haven Gastropub in Orange and Pasadena, knows that a madeleine should be a delicate sponge cake on the inside, with an oh-so-subtle lightly browned crust on the outside. She says that the classic French cookie should be served warm, fresh from its special pan clad with rows of scallop-shell indentations. She uses silicone pans because they are easier to clean and once baked, the madeleines pop out more easily.

Dipped into hot tea or coffee, or served with ice cream or whipped cream, or simply noshed plain and simple, madeleines are divine.

But she takes them over the top, serving them on Haven’s Cookie Plate along with three additional freshly-made, still-warm cookies: her nutter-butter cookies, her version of Oreos and her rendition of chocolate chip.

See Santanna’s secrets for her delicious madeleines in this short video.

Many of her dessert creations venture to the road less traveled. They are unexpected yet irresistible, such as her pots du crèmes topped with slivers of candied butternut squash or the now-banned foie gras cheesecake that has received rave reviews from coast to coast.

Here is her recipe for madeleines that are flavor-boosted with the addition of lemon and orange zest. If you have a Microplane zester, it is perfect for removing just the outside of the citrus that is rich with fragrant oils; the device leaves behind the bitter white pith.

Santanna’s Madeleines

Yield: about 3 dozen, but number depends on size of molds
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon softened unsalted butter
2 cups plus 1/3cup granulated sugar
6 large eggs
Minced zest of 1 orange
Minced zest of 1 lemon
2 teaspoons (or to taste) vanilla extract
Nonstick vegetable spray
Procedure:
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Place flour and baking powder in a bowl; set aside. In the large bowl of an electric mixer using the flat paddle, cream the butter and sugar on medium-low speed until light in color and fluffy. If you take a pinch of the mixture between your thumb and finger, you can feel only a slight graininess.
3. On slow speed, add eggs one at a time, beating about 10 seconds between additions. Add dry ingredients and mix on slow speed just until blended. Add zest and vanilla; mix just until blended.
4. Spray madeleine pans with nonstick spray. If using silicone molds, set them on a rimmed baking sheet. Either spoon batter into molds filling them half full, or use a pastry bag with a small plain tip to half-fill each mold (watch the video to see how easy this is).
5. Bake in preheated oven until lightly golden and madeleines feel spongy and spring back when poked with a fingertip, about 12 minutes for medium-size molds. Remove from oven. Remove cookies using a small palette knife or butter knife to pry them out, using caution not to burn your fingers and place on cooling rack. If left in the pan to cool, they will be troublesome. They are best eaten warm, but cooled on rack, they can be kept for 2 or 3 days stored in an airtight container at room temperature. (Am I kidding? At my house they are gone in hours!)
Source: Santanna Salas, executive pastry chef Haven Gastropub, Orange and Pasadena

A quick tip from Melissa’s …

Muscatos, Melissa’s signature table grapes, are so delicious they make other varieties seem ho-hum in comparison.

Available from late July through October (with a lapse mid August), the Black Muscato is my favorite grape, although the red and green varieties are delicious as well and are close runner-ups. They have such rich, deep jammy flavor. Sweet and yes, jammy.

This year the Black Muscato grapes brixed around 22, whereas most table grapes brix around 16. Sugar levels are measured with a brix refractometer, a devise that measures sugar levels. Darn impressive, right?

My favorite way to serve Melissa’s Black Muscato grapes is with a slab of Roquefort cheese, toasted walnuts and thin baguette slices slathered with a little good olive oil and toasted.

Muscato table grapes are sold at Gelson’s, Bristol Farms and often at Mother’s Markets.

Toast walnut halves or pieces on a rimmed baking sheet in a 350-degree oven until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Turn on the oven light and keep an eye on them because they can go from nicely toasted to black in the wink of an eye. If you don’t like walnuts, substitute you favorite nut!

Just don’t forget the Muscatos.

cathythomascooks.com

As this sun-drenched summer draws to a close, with a lot more hot days ahead, the idea of having quick-to-bake cookies in my refrigerator has enormous appeal. Icebox cookies, as they were dubbed when I was growing up in the fifties, are one of my favorite homemade convenience foods.

Warm cookies are only minutes away when you’ve tucked cylinders of cookie dough in the fridge or freezer. You can make the dough today and bake them today, tomorrow, or next week. Or if you freeze them, and devour them next month.

Part of their allure is their potential for portion control. When it comes to cookies I have the self-control of a voracious two-year-old. With refrigerator cookies, you can slice off just what you need. Maybe three or four baked in the toaster oven.

Call them slice-then-bake cookies if you like, but don’t confuse them with those double-sealed tubes of cookie dough you find at the supermarket. They’re almost as handy, but have endless flavor, texture and visual possibilities.

Smooth chocolate layered with cardamom-scented vanilla dough, then coiled into showy pinwheels. Dutch almond-spiked cinnamon treats or crunchy coins of melt-in-your-mouth, mint-boosted chocolate. Or rounds of cracker-crisp pecan paradise.

According to “The Joy of Cooking” by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan Becker (Scribner, 1997, $30), what Irma Rombauer called “icebox cookies” in the 1931 edition, were renamed “refrigerator cookies” in the ’50s by Marion Becker. But “Joy,” along with many other cookbooks, returned to the original nomenclature. Icebox harks back to a bake-from-scratch, bygone era. Somehow it seems homier.

But whether you call them icebox cookies or refrigerator cookies or, heaven forbid, freezer cookies, the dough is made in advance and chilled, then sliced as needed for baking.

Store them up to one week in the refrigerator, or freeze up to six weeks. Then, at baking time, unwrap the roll and slice with a thin, sharp knife. I have a very sharp, serrated bread knife that works really well. Rotate the cookie dough log after every couple of slices to keep it from flattening on one side. Because the dough is cold, they carve into even, neat slices. Most don’t have to be thawed before slicing.

In fact, cold dough maintains its shape because the chilled butter stays firm enough during the baking process.

Some recipes suggest forming the dough into a cylinder on plastic wrap, but I think it’s easier to use wax paper or parchment paper. Either way, twist the ends to secure the log and chill. Once chilled, slip the wrapped cylinders into zipper-style bags. If freezing, use zipper-style freezer bags and push out air before sealing.

Slice and bake to your heart’s content with your cold, but soon to be warm, cookie cache. Label the dough “smoked marlin” — it’ll keep the kids away. Oh, the luxury of homemade cookies whenever you want or need them. Stashed in the fridge or in the freezer, behind the rump roast, next to the rocky road, there will be luscious logs of dough.

Black and White Pinwheels
Yield: About 3 dozen cookies
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom, see cook’s notes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 large egg yolk
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 ounce melted unsweetened chocolate
Cook’s notes: Cardamom is an aromatic member of the ginger family. It has a delicate, spicy-sweet flavor that is traditional in Scandinavian cookies. Dried cardamom seedpods are either white (bleached), pale green (oven dried), or brown (sun dried). Inside the pod are tiny seeds. The outer pod is not generally used, but is broken away from the small seeds inside and discarded. Indian markets, specialty import stores such as Cost Plus and most supermarkets carry cardamom.
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Fifteen minutes before baking, preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, cardamom and salt; set aside.
2. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, beat butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add egg yolk and vanilla; beat until smooth. On low speed beat in dry ingredients.
3. Remove half of dough and set aside. Add melted chocolate to remaining dough and beat until chocolate is thoroughly incorporated.
4. Shape each of the two doughs into 6-inch squares. Wrap in wax paper and refrigerate 1 hour or until fairly firm.
5. Roll out the plain dough between 2 sheets of wax paper to a 7-by-14-inch rectangle. Remove top sheet of paper. Roll out chocolate dough to a 7-by-14-inch rectangle and place on top of the vanilla dough, gently pressing the two doughs together. Beginning with the long side, use the paper to help lift the dough and roll it into a tight cylinder. Wrap in wax paper and chill in refrigerator. For longer storage, place wrapped cylinders in a zipper-style freezer bag and freeze.
6. When ready to bake, using a sharp knife, cut dough into 1/4-inch slices and place 1 inch apart onto ungreased baking sheets. Bake about 10 minutes or until golden. Transfer cookies to cooling rack.
Nutrition information (per cookie): 90 calories, 44 percent of calories from fat, 4.5 g fat, 2.3 g saturated fat, 12 mg cholesterol, 14 g carbohydrates,  g protein, 65 mg sodium, 0.3 g fiber
Source: Adapted from “Mary Engelbreit’s Cookies Cookbook” (Andrews McMeel, 1998, $16.95)

Pecan Crisps
Yield: About 55 cookies
1 1/4 cups chopped pecans, divided use
2 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, slightly softened
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1 large egg
1/2 cup vegetable oil, such as canola or safflower oil
1 teaspoon vanilla
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread pecans in single layer on baking sheet. Toast in oven until lightly browned, about 3-5 minutes. Watch carefully because nuts burn easily. Cool.
2. In a bowl, whisk flour, baking soda and salt; set aside.
3. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, combine butter and sugars; beat until fluffy and smooth. Add egg, oil and vanilla; beat until well combined. Add dry ingredients; beat until well blended. Add half of cooled nuts; mix to blend. Cover and refrigerate dough 1 hour.
4. Divide dough in half. Place each portion of dough on a large sheet of wax paper. Roll each into a log 2 inches in diameter.
Roll each log in remaining pecans, pressing and patting them into the surface. Enclose in wax paper and twist ends to seal. Place in zipper-style plastic bags and freeze at least 4 hours and up to 6 weeks.
5. Fifteen minutes before baking, put rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Grease baking sheets with butter. Cut logs into 1/4-inch slices and place 1 1/2 inches apart on prepared sheets. Leave second log in freezer until just before slicing and baking. Immediately place in upper third of preheated oven. Bake 9-11 minutes or until nicely colored all over and slightly darker around the edges. Transfer to cooling racks.
Nutrition information (per cookie): 95 calories, 67 percent of calories from fat, 6 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 12 mg cholesterol, 27 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 60 mg sodium, 0.5 g fiber
Source: Adapted from “The International Cookie Cookbook” by Nancy Baggett (Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 1988, $20, soft cover)

Chocolate-Mint Cookies
Yield: about 3 1/2 dozen
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Dutch-process)
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/4 teaspoons peppermint extract
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup sugar
1 egg
Garnish: 6 ounces coating chocolate or semisweet chocolate or chocolate-mint chips, chopped
Cook’s notes: Mint chocolate chips are available in some supermarkets at holiday time. Disks of mint chocolate coating chocolate are often sold at craft stores such as Classic Cakes in Garden Grove or Michael’s.
1. Whisk flour, cocoa powder, and salt in medium bowl to blend.
2. Using electric mixer, beat butter in large bowl until smooth. Beat in peppermint extract and vanilla extract. Beat in sugar in 3 additions. Add egg and beat until blended. Add dry ingredients and beat just until blended (dough will be sticky).
3. Divide dough between 2 sheets of plastic wrap or wax paper. Using plastic wrap or wax paper as aid, form dough on each into 2-inch-diameter log. Refrigerate dough until well chilled, at least 2 hours.
4. Position 1 rack in center and 1 rack in top third of oven; preheat to 350 degrees.  Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Unwrap cookie dough logs; roll briefly on work surface to form smooth round logs. Cut logs crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Place rounds on prepared baking sheets, spacing 1 inch apart. Bake cookies until tops and edges are dry to touch, about 15 minutes. Transfer baking sheets with cookies to racks; cool completely.
5. Stir chocolate in top of double boiler set over simmering water until melted and smooth. Remove from over water. Chocolate should only be warm enough to melt, not hot. You can either dip half of each cookie in the white or dark chocolate (and allow to harden on a sheet of wax paper) or place melted white chocolate in a pastry bag fitted with a small, plain tip and pipe polka dots or zigzags on the top of each cooled cookie. Refrigerate cookies on baking sheets until chocolate is set, about 10 minutes. If you use coating chocolate (such as Candiquik ) it will harden at room temperature and no refrigeration is needed.
Nutrition information (per cookie): 80 calories, 48 percent of calories from fat, 4.2 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 8 mg cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 1.5 g protein, 60 mg sodium, 0.2 g fiber
Source: adapted from “Bon Appetit Desserts” by Barbara Fairchild (Andrews McMeel, $40)

Dutch Almond Cookies
Yield: about 80 to 90 cookies
Butter for greasing pan
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
6 tablespoons water
2 cups whole blanched almonds, see cook’s notes
Topping:
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Cook’s notes: To blanch (remove skin) from whole almonds place in heatproof bowl. Pour enough boiling water to barely cover almonds and let them sit for 2 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water, and drain again. Pat dry and slip the skins off. I like to use a paper towel to pinch the skin off (pinching at the large end). Truth be told, I usually recruit a family member to do this while I get the other ingredients measured and ready to go.
1. Line an 8-inch square pan with aluminum foil; butter foil. Line 2 or 3 baking sheets with parchment paper.
2. Melt butter in large saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat and stir in brown sugar, granulated sugar and water. Return to heat and bring to boil, stirring occasionally, until sugar melts. Remove from heat and stir in almonds.
3. Pour sugar-almond mixture into a large bowl and stir in dry ingredients. Press dough into prepared square pan, cover with plastic wrap and chill overnight or until firm.
4. About 20 minutes before you are ready to bake cookies, set racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.
5. Prepare topping: thoroughly combine 1/2 cup granulated sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon; set aside.
6. Unmold the “brick” of cookie dough from the pan and place on cutting board. Cut brick into three bars, each 8-by-2 1/2-by- 1 1/4 inches (bars will be just a little more than 2 1/2-inches wide). Wrap 2 bars in parchment paper, wax paper or plastic wrap and refrigerate. Cut remaining brick into 1/4-inch thick slices. As you cut cookies, place them on prepared sheets one inch apart in all directions. Just before putting sheets in oven, sprinkle tops of cookies generously with the cinnamon sugar. Bake cookies for about 15 minutes, or until they are golden and firm. Slide the parchment with the cookies on top onto cooling racks. Cookies will crisp as they cool. Repeat with remaining bars of dough.
7. Store cookies between sheets of parchment or wax paper in a tin or plastic container with a tight fitting lid. If freezing the bar(s), it is best to thaw dough overnight in the refrigerator before slicing and baking.
Nutrition information (per cookie): 92 calories, 49 percent of calories from fat, 4.8 g fat, 2.9 g saturated fat, 9 mg cholesterol, 14 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 55 mg sodium, 0.3 g fiber
Source: “Cookies Unlimited” by Nick Malgieri (HarperCollins, $35)

Deborah Schneider, executive chef-partner of SOL Cocina in Newport Beach, says that a trusty slow cooker can replicate the kind of authentic dishes that are patiently cooked in earthenware pots in Mexico.

Her new book, her fifth, “The Mexican Slow Cooker” (Ten Speed Press, $19.99) showcases irresistible dishes that traditionally cook for hours and hours at the back of the stove. Translated into using the slow cooker, the dishes boast flavors infused with the richness of chilies, herbs and vegetables, and in those that include meat, it is tenderized to perfection.

She says that a modern slow cooker, one that can be set to shift to the warm setting when the cooking is complete, can make us better cooks. And at the same time, they can relieve a lot of the fussy, time-consuming aspects of cooking.

And she should know. She owns six slow cookers: 2-quart, 4-quart, 5-quart, 5.5-quart, 6-quart and 7-quart. The 6-quart is the most versatile, and when testing the recipes, she ended up using it the most.

According to Schneider, the slow cooker works best when it is only half full.

“So it is much better to have a slow cooker that is a slightly larger one, than one that is too small,” she says in a tone that conveys both respect and adoration. I think it is fair to say that Schneider is mad about her slow cookers, with the exception of maybe the 2-quart beauty. She says it’s not big enough to be practical.

Caldos (stocks or broths) are very tasty and easy to prepare when made in a slow cooker. They can be the basis for hearty homemade soups, as well as used to add rich flavor to stews (guisados), salsas, moles, and rice. Unlike caldos made on top of the stove, you don’t need to keep an eye on them, fiddling with the flame to maintain the right temperature, a tricky setting that is just below a simmer.

In a slow cooker, it’s just a matter of cover and cook for eight hours. Put it on before you turn in and it will be ready in the morning. And the house will smell delicious.

And for all dishes made in a slow cooker, Schneider suggests that cooks check the seasoning at the end of the cooking. “This kind of cooking can affect the seasoning balance in different ways,” she says.  “The Chile Verde may need a squeeze of lime. The beef with chorizo and potatoes may need some chopped cilantro on it. And you may want to offer some optional hot sauce.”

Her favorite is Salsa Huichol, a thick orange hot sauce with a little habanero chili.

“The point is to think of your slow cooker as another cook in the kitchen, especially the new models that have the automatic warm settings; the old slow cookers cooked on low until the cows came home, but the new ones can be set to shift to warm when the cooking is complete,” she says leaving the hot sauce topic. “It’s remarkably versatile. It can be a rice cooker or a buffet server, or used to steam tamales.”

“And don’t be intimidated by the recipes (in the book). Half are super easy, the others require a couple of steps.”

Here are some favorites:

Chile Verde takes its name from three types of green chiles, which are combined with green tomatillos to make an olive-green sauce with a gently tart and spicy edge. Never overpowering, it’s a perfect match for the richness of the pork. For frying the pork, Schneider uses fresh (liquid) lard, called asiento, which she buys at Mexican markets. I asked her about using vegetable oil instead and she gave her approval, but said it wouldn’t have the same depth of flavor. She said not to use olive oil. All the ingredients go into the slow cooker hot, so the dish cooks in about 2 hours. This recipe is excellent with made with pork chops instead of diced pork. Serve it with rice, beans, and warm corn tortillas.

Chile Verde
Pork in Green Chili Salsa
Yield: 6 servings
2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds
1 whole clove
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
10 tomatillos (about 12 ounces total), husked and washed
2 (fresh) jalapeño chilies, stemmed (use Serrano chilies if you like it spicier)
8 (fresh) Anaheim chilies, roasted, seeded, and diced, see cook’s notes
4 large cloves garlic
2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons fresh lard or vegetable oil
2 1/2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
2 large (fresh) poblano chilies, roasted, seeded, and diced, see cook’s notes
1/2 white onion, finely diced
1 cup water, Caldo de Pollo or diluted canned sodium-reduced chicken broth (1/2 cup canned broth mixed with 1/2 cup water)
1 dried bay leaf
Garnish: Mexican crema or sour cream
Cook’s notes: To roast chilies place on rimmed baking sheet about 6 inches below broiler element. Broil until charred, turning after top portion blisters and chars, to char opposite side. Cautiously wrap charred chilies in paper towels to cool. Cut in half and remove seeds and stem. Rub off charred skin with your fingers. I have an inexpensive coffee grinder that I use exclusively to grind spices. It works like a charm.
1. In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the cumin, clove, and peppercorns until fragrant, stirring frequently so they don’t burn. Let cool completely and grind in a spice grinder (see cook’s notes).
2. Place the tomatillos and jalapeños in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer 5 minutes, or until barely soft. Drain immediately and place in a food processor along with the Anaheim chiles, garlic, and salt. Pulse until smooth.
3. Heat the lard (or oil) in a large skillet over medium-high heat and, working in batches, brown the pork on one side without stirring the meat, then turn and brown on the other side. Return all the pork to the skillet and add the poblanos and onion and cook, stirring, until the onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Add the ground spices and cook, stirring, for an additional 2 minutes, until the spices are fragrant. Transfer the pork mixture to a 5-quart slow cooker.
4. Return the skillet to the stove and reduce heat to medium. Add the contents of the food processor to the pan and cook, stirring, until the salsa is thick and begins to stick to the pan. Add the water and bay leaf to the pan and simmer, stirring once or twice, for 5 minutes. Stir into the pork in the slow cooker, cover, and cook on low 2 hours, or until the pork is tender. Serve hot with a bowl of Mexican crema or sour cream alongside.
Nutrition information (per serving): 222 calories, 52 percent of calories from fat, 13 g fat, 5.2 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 16 g carbohydrates, 11 g protein, 450 mg sodium, 2.6 g fiber
Source: “The Mexican Slow Cooker” by Deborah Schneider (Ten Speed Press, $19.99)

A different take on meat and potatoes, this easy, spicy guisado (stew) is made with chorizo, tender beef, potatoes, plenty of garlic, and spicy árbol chilies. Be sure to buy Mexican chorizo, which is a soft uncured sausage flavored with chilies, garlic, cumin, and marjoram. Beef chorizo tastes similar to the pork version, and both are available at Mexican markets and many supermarkets. Serve it with rice and warm flour tortillas, or use it as a filling for burritos. To reduce the spicy heat, cut back on the árbol chilies.

Carne con Chorizo y Papas
Beef with Chorizo and Potatoes
Yield: 6 servings
12 (dried) guajillo chilies, stemmed and seeded
2 (dried) ancho chilies, stemmed and seeded
10 (dried) chilies de árbol, stemmed and seeded
6 cups hot water
4 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 cups peeled and diced red potatoes
2 pounds boneless beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
8 ounces beef or pork chorizo, crumbled
1/2 white onion, very finely minced
2 teaspoons whole dried Mexican oregano
1 cup water, Caldo de Pollo, or diluted canned sodium-reduce chicken broth (1/2 cup broth and 1/2 cup water)
Garnish: diced white onion, Mexican crema or sour cream
1. Heat a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chilies and toast on both sides, turning occasionally and pressing down with a spatula, until they soften and blister (do not burn). Remove from the pan. When the chilies are cool enough to handle, tear them into small pieces and place in a heatproof bowl. Add the hot water and soak the chilies, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 1/2 cups of the soaking liquid.
2. In a blender, combine the chilies with the reserved soaking liquid, garlic, and salt and puree until perfectly smooth, scraping down the sides several times.
3. Place the potatoes in the bottom of a 5-quart slow cooker. Layer the beef over the potatoes. Crumble the chorizo over the beef. Add the onion and oregano. Pour the chilie puree and water over the meat.
4. Cover and cook on low for 6 hours, stirring several times, until the meat is tender. The sauce might begin to separate, but this will not affect the taste.
Serve hot, sprinkled with the diced onion, and dollop with crema or sour cream, if you like.
Nutrition information (per serving): 333 calories, 60 percent of calories from fat,22 g fat, 6.7g saturated fat, 78 mg cholesterol, 3 g carbohydrates, 30 g protein, 862 mg sodium, 3.8 g fiber
Source: “The Mexican Slow Cooker” by Deborah Schneider (Ten Speed Press, $19.99)

Yes, I know there are a lot of ingredients in mole (pronounced MOH-lay). But the list is short compared to some recipes. In fact, the last time I made it I said I would never make this rich, thick, smooth, deeply-colored sauce again. It’s a wee bit spicy and a little sweet, filled with interesting tastes that are difficult to identify, but really scrumptious. Deborah Schneider convinced me that all you have to do is dump in the ingredients in the slow cooker and let it cook 4 hours, then puree the sauce. In fact, she says that they use this mole-in-the-slow-cooker technique at the restaurants (she now has a SOL restaurant in Scottsdale, AZ,  as well as Newport). If you are a fan of TV’s Top Chef Masters, you may remember when chef Rick Bayless beat the prestigious team of contenders with his 30-ingredient Mole Negro; this version has fewer ingredients. I went to Ranchito Supermarket in Westminster to buy many ingredients, but there are markets with Mexican specialty ingredients all over Orange County.

Mole Negro
Yield: 6 servings
5 (dried) chilies negros, stemmed, seeded
3 (dried) guajillo chilies, stemmed, seeded
2 large (dried) ancho chilies, stemmed, seeded
1 (dried) chipotle chilies, stemmed, seeded
1/2 white onion, diced
5 large garlic cloves, peeled
1 1/2 Roma tomatoes, diced
2 large tomatillos, husked, washed, diced
1/2 firm banana, peeled, cubed
2 tablespoons whole almonds
2 tablespoons raw peanuts
1/4 cup sesame seeds, plus additional for garnish
1/4 cup seedless raisins
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
3 whole cloves
1 teaspoon whole anise seeds
2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano
1/4 teaspoon thyme
2 teaspoons kosher salt
4 cups Caldo de Pollo, or more as needed (can substitute canned sodium-reduced chicken broth diluted – half water, half broth)
6 chicken breasts or 12 thighs, skin-on, bone-in (about 4 pounds)
1 tablespoon crushed Ibarra Mexican chocolate
1. Place all ingredients except the chicken and chocolate in a 5-quart slow cooker. Set chicken on top. Cover and cook on low for 4 hours, or until chicken is tender but not falling off the bone. Remove the chicken. If you like, you can remove the skin and bones now, or you can serve it as is (which is the traditional way) while you finish the mole.
2. Transfer contents of cooker in several batches into a blender. Add chocolate; cautiously blend on high holding lid down with a pot holder on high speed for several minutes, until perfectly smooth. Check the seasoning; moles should taste slightly under-seasoned and never salty.  The mole should be thick and very smooth. For a velvety texture, pass the sauce through a food mill to remove any remaining skins or fibers (I pureed in batches in a Vita Mix high speed blender and didn’t need to strain) . If necessary, add a little water or broth to thin the sauce to a coating consistency. To serve, liberally ladle the mole over the chicken, then lightly dust with the sesame seeds.
Nutrition information (per serving): 324 calories, 44 percent of calories from fat, 16 g fat, 6.7 g saturated fat, 54 mg cholesterol, 7 g carbohydrates, 29g protein, 542 mg sodium, 3.9 g fiber
Source: “The Mexican Slow Cooker” by Deborah Schneider (Ten Speed Press, $19.99)

Caldo de Pollo

Chicken Broth
Yield: makes 12 cups
1 small carrot, peeled, diced
1 celery stalk, diced
1 large white onion, diced
10 sprigs fresh flat-leafed parsley or fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 large clove garlic, halved
2 dried bay leaves
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 (dried) ancho chili, stemmed, seeded, toasted, see cook’s notes
3 pounds meaty chicken wing tips or backs and necks, or chicken pieces
12 cups water
Cook’s notes: To toast chili, heat a heavy cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add chili to dry pan and press down firmly with spatula until chili blisters and softens, being careful not to burn it. Turn chili over and repeat.
1. Combine all ingredients in a 6- or 7-quart slow cooker. Cover and cook on low for 8 hours. Remove lid, turn off cooker, and allow broth to cool and settle for 30 minutes.
2. Set a colander over a large bowl. Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, carefully lift all the solids from the cooker without scrapping bottom and drain them in the colander. Use a ladle or large measuring cup to remove the remaining broth from the cooker and pass through the colander. (Be careful not to disturb any of the small bits on the bottom; these will make the broth cloudy. Pour the last remnants of the broth and the bits on the bottom into a separate container and discard.) Do not press down on the solids in the colander, but allow the broth to drain on its own for 15 minutes. Once it has stopped dripping, discard the solids in the colander. Let the broth cool to room temperature and then chill. Before freezing it or using it in a recipe, remove any layer of fat that floats to the surface.
Nutrition information (per 1 cup serving): 250 calories,  45 percent of calories from fat, 12g fat, 6.1 g saturated fat, 36 mg cholesterol, 35g carbohydrates, 5g protein, 407 mg sodium, 2.8 g fiber
Source: “The Mexican Slow Cooker” by Deborah Schneider (Ten Speed Press, $19.99)

Thank you to Cindy Yamanaka for her beautiful photos!

Want to go to an event with Deb Schneider?

WHAT: What’s Cooking at the Library with Chef Deborah Schneider

WHEN: Tuesday, September 18, 2012 at 7 p.m.

WHERE: Central Library Friends Room, 1000 Avocado Avenue, Newport Beach

COST: $20 per person, per program

INFORMATION: 949-717-3800 or visit www.newportbeachlibrary.org

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Future Food Farms’ scrumptious, pop-up multi-course dinner amid rows of basil, red Russian kale and amaranth. Microgreens, edible flowers and lettuces – vibrant and hardy. The combined scent of green growth and luscious food. It’s the work of Adam Navidi – chef, farmer, aquaponic pioneer.

Farm is located on over 25 acres in Brea. All organically grown in his 2,000-4,000 square-foot greenhouses. It’s one of the largest aquaponic farms in the state.

Chef Adam Navidi shows off a head of his beautiful lettuce. He sells his produce at several farmers markets in OC, including Brea on Tuesdays, Orange Circle on Saturdays and often The Great Park on Sundays. He sells to ten restaurants and one produce distributor.

Here’s the menu from the pop-up farm dinner that I attended. Well, the photo shows the above the fold portion of the menu. There were three more dishes! To read more about the dinners or to sign up, go to www.futurefoodsfarms.com.

Here’s a sample:

Raw Carlsbad Oysters with Vanilla-Citrus Cocktail Sauce and Spicy Red Mustard Sprouts

“Garden Pots” with cute little stubby yellow carrots and chive flowers stuck in “soil” made of tapenade topped hummus.

FFF Farmhouse Salad showcases oh-so-tender baby aquaponic lettuces and greens. Also heirloom tomatoes, pine nuts and feta.

Steamed FFF tilapia is wrapped in water lettuce with wild dill and greenhouse-dried tomatoes.

New Frontier Chicken Piccata showcases backyard lemons, nasturtiums, capers and micro arugula.

Roasted Peach-Blueberry Cobbler with Farmstead Honey-Cinnamon Ice Cream.

Navidi says that his produce is grown without harmful chemicals, pesticides, or synthetic nutrients; he uses considerably less water and power than hydroponic and conventional farming.

For a pop-up feast, feel free to bring your favorite bottle(s) of wine or beer (no corkage fee) to pair with your tasting (non-alcoholic beverages will be provided).

Comfortable, low shoes are suggested for the farm tour before dinner. Come hungry, ee-eye-ee-eye-oh.

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Chef Alan Greeley knows how to make an entrance!

Scheduled to shoot an “open-faced” tamale video, he arrived at my house on his packed-with-ingredients motorcycle. Among the beautiful produce was a knock-out watermelon radish that I decided would make a great monocle. Not only does Alan make me hungry, he makes me laugh.

Alan Greeley knows how to take a classic dish and make it better. He improves the taste, perfects the texture and, well, adds his signature touch of whimsy.

His topless tamales are one example. The executive chef-owner of The Golden Truffle in Costa Mesa, loves tamales, but thinks the ratio of masa to filling can be disappointing. So instead of the traditional stuff-fold tamale, he smears the masa atop a fresh banana leaf and steams them open-faced. The filling is the topping, but it is used in more generous proportions.

The short video shows how easy and versatile Alan’s style of tamale can be. He makes three variations in minutes – one with cod and tomatilla salsa, one with shrimp ceviche, and a vegetarian version with beans and squash blossoms.

It’s a method that only requires about 10 minutes of steaming, then, he says, you have a luscious backdrop to work with. One example is the Cod Topless Tamale, that showcases thinly sliced fish, tomatillo sauce, Oaxacan string cheese, fresh tomatoes and cilantro.

Store-bought prepared masa is sold at many Hispanic markets (be sure to specify masa for tamales, not for tortillas). Greeley suggests El Gallo Giro in Santa Ana and El Metate in Costa Mesa, Orange and Santa Ana.

Fresh banana leaves are sold in the produce sections of those markets. The masa steams atop a segment of fresh banana leaf. The masa absorbs the perfume of the leaf as it heats.

Greeley says this is the kind of dish you should serve at a casual gathering. Invite the neighbors, he says, and have them help in assembling and garnishing.

(Look at all the beautiful produce chef Greeley packed in his motorcycle.)

Golden Truffle’s Cod Topless Tamales
Yield: 4 topless tamales
1 fresh banana leaf, cut crosswise into 5-inch sections
2 1/2 cups store-bought masa (masa preparado) for tamales (not tortillas)
4 to 6 ounces string cheese, Oaxacan string cheese preferred, but standard is fine, torn into 8 pieces
8 ounces fresh black cod, or other mild white fish, cut into 3/8-inch slices
Salt to taste
Tomatillo sauce, see cook’s notes
3 tomatoes, heirlooms preferred, cut into small wedges
8 sprigs of fresh cilantro
Cook’s notes: You can use store-bought tomatillo sauce if you like. Greeley makes his by sautéing 1 white onion (chopped) in 2 teaspoons olive oil until softened. He adds 3 garlic cloves (chopped), 2 cups tomatillos (peeled, washed, chopped), 1 to 2 Serrano chilies (remove seeds for a milder version, chopped), and salt; cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute). Add 1 cup chicken broth and bring to boil on high heat; reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes. Puree in blender in batches (hold down lid of blender with potholder). If mixture is too thick, add a little broth or water and blend again. Greeley also spooned some vegetables on the side that he had cooked in some strained fish stock (chunks of carrots, onions, tomatoes and celery). He said the vegetables aren’t an essential element. Use caution when working with fresh chilies; wash hands and work surface upon completion and do NOT touch eyes or face.
1. Place banana leaves in single layer on work surface. Place masa in center of each leaf, dividing it evenly. Smear it out so it makes a rough rectangle about 6-inches long. Top masa with string cheese pieces. Place fish on top, overlapping the slices slightly. Season fish with salt.

2. Place in steamer (masa-side up) over (but not touching) boiling water; cover. Steam for 10 minutes. Cautiously remove from steamer and place each open-faced tamale on a plate, masa-side up with the banana leaf still intact. Spoon a generous amount of tomatillo salsa on the side. Top with fresh tomato wedges and cilantro sprigs.
Source: Alan Greeley, executive chef-owner, The Golden Truffle, Costa Mesa
The Golden Truffle, 1767 Newport Boulevard, Costa Mesa, 949- 645-9858

Do you know a chef that you would like to see featured in a video? Email me cathythomascooks@gmail.com.

A quick top from Melissa’s …

Summer cucumber bonanza! One very easy dish is cucumber salad.

Peel the cucumbers. If using hothouse cucumbers, you don’t need to seed them, just slice them. If using common cucumbers you will need to peel, cut in half lengthwise  and seed.

Have a look at the last part of the above video to see how. It’s easy.

Slice the cucumbers crosswise and place in colander. Lightly salt them and set aside for 20-30 minutes. This will take out the excess water and make them more flavorful.

Toss them with enough sour cream or plain Greek-style yogurt to generously coat. Chop up a generous amount of fresh tarragon leaves and parlsey; add herbs to the cucumber mixture and toss.

Cover and chill. Enjoy!

cathythomascooks.com

My Pizza, His Pizza: Brick’s Chef-Owner David Pratt’s pizza outshines my darn-good homemade, but the culinary adventure is part of the fun.

Could I make pizza at home that is as good as Chef David Pratt’s? A new pizza cookbook gave me a glimmer of hope, a volume that promises an easy, no-knead way to make spectacular pizza in a home kitchen.

But after spending time with Pratt at his new pizzeria, Brick, San Clemente, I have a much better understanding of the kind of attention to detail that goes in to producing the perfect pizza pie.

Pratt is a perfectionist, and you may recognize his name; years ago he was chef-co-owner of Mirabeau, a popular restaurant in Monarch Beach.

Nine months before Brick opened, I visited the site to talk about the planned transformation. Stark sheetrock covered walls, a table in the center of what would become the dining room, cradled blueprints.

Have a look at this video to get a closeup before-and-after look at Brick.

Much of our conversation focused on the Lamborghini of wood-burning pizza ovens, the Valoriani; it was on order from Florence, Italy, with a price tag of $15,000. Pratt rhapsodized about the high heat on the oven’s floor, a temperature around 700 degrees that would quickly create pizza crusts with alluring hints of charring.

Sporadic blisters on the surface. Irresistible inner chew.

When I returned a few weeks ago, the restaurant had been open for a month. The welcoming décor showed off walls covered with reclaimed red bricks from Chicago. Pieces of reclaimed amber bottles formed intriguing mosaics on columns and snazzy fixtures made with copper pipes and coke bottles hung over the bar.

Chunks of almond wood in the Valoriani were ablaze, and a skillful pizza chef (called the pizzaiolo) worked his long-handled peel to rotate and shift the artisanal pies to create crusts with character and toppings that were neither watery nor overcooked. As I watched I wondered how many pies met their doom before he learned how to be a pizza-pie acrobat.

(During quiet lunchtimes, children are encouraged to garnish their own pizzas at Brick. Here, Blake Marcisz of San Clemente adorns his pizza.)

Pratt was quick to point out that slow-rise dough made with the finest ingredients is essential. He uses organic, high-gluten flour from Central Milling in Utah to make 20 pounds at a time in his big-boy 30-quart Hobart mixer. He said that he can tell by the sound of the dough gyrating on the dough hook and slapping against the bowl, whether it needs additional water or flour. Weather plays a part here, especially humidity. It’s a skill learned by lots of experience.

A portion of biga (starter dough from a previously-made fully-aged batch) is added to give the new dough additional flavor; then the dough rests for three days.

(The Calabrian Margarita – silver tequila, watermelon, Calabrian-mint syrup – something to sip while your pizza dough ferments.)

Well, no wonder my attempts at pizza making at home have been hit and miss.

Turning to “My Pizza” by Jim Lahey (Clarkson Potter, $27.50), the cookbook that promises whiz-bang homemade pizza, I gave it another shot. According to Lahey, the founder of Sullivan Street Bakery and Co. in New York City, I needed some new equipment. I bought a bigger rectangular pizza stone (14-by-16-by-3/4-inch, $61) and a new peel (a flat shovel-like tool to slide pizza in and out of oven) with an 8-inch handle ($10) at Chefs’ Toys, Fountain Valley. I already had a dandy scale, so weighing the ingredients was easy (the author gives cup and tablespoon measurements, too). I started the journey, knowing that the dough needed to have 18 hours to ferment.

The verdict? My at-home results were very good, much better than those I’ve made using store-bought pizza dough. In a side by side comparison, it could never stand up to Brick. It was tasty and the crust was beautifully chewy. But blisters and charring were lacking. And I still make amoeba-like shapes rather than full-moon wonders.

Let me say this. If and when I make pizza at home, I will use this recipe. But I think I need to wrestle some of that Central Milling flour from Chef Pratt’s talented hands.

Lahey’s No-Knead Pizza Dough

Yield: 4 10-inch pizzas

3 3/4 cups (17 1/2 ounces or 500 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for shaping

1/4 teaspoon (1 gram) active dry yeast

2 teaspoons (16 grams) fine sea salt

1 1/2 cups water (350 grams)

Cook’s notes: Don’t freeze the dough, but you can store it in the refrigerator, wrapped in plastic, for up to three days. I used all-purpose Gold Medal flour, a product that I knew was readily available.

1. In medium bowl (I use the large bowl of my electric mixer because it is deep and has a handle) thoroughly blend flour, yeast and salt. Add water and, with a sturdy wooden spoon or your hands, mix thoroughly (do not overwork it).

2. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel, and allow it to rise at room temperature (about 72 degrees) for 18 hours or until it has more than doubled. It will take longer in a chilly room and less time in a very warm one.

3. Flour a work surface and scrape out the dough. Divide it into 4 equal parts and shape them; for each portion, start with the right side of the dough and pull it toward the center; then do the same with the left, then the top, then the bottom. (The order doesn’t actually matter – what you want is four folds.) Shape each portion into a round and turn seam side down. Mold the dough into a neat circular mound. The mounds should not be sticky; if they are, dust with more flour.

4. If you don’t intend to use the dough right away, wrap the balls individually in plastic and refrigerate for up to 3 days. Return to room temperature by leaving them out on the counter, covered with a damp cloth, for 2 to 3 hours before needed.

Source: “My Pizza” by Jim Lahey (Clarkson Potter, $27.50)

To make the pizzas: During the last hour of dough’s resting, prepare oven: Arrange rack in upper third of oven and place stone on rack; preheat oven to its hottest setting, 500- to 550-degrees for 1 hour. Working with 1 dough ball at a time, dust dough generously with flour and place on dry, floured work surface. Gently shape dough into a 10-inch disk.

For pizza stone “baking” in electric oven: When ready to bake, turn the preheated oven to broil. Sprinkle peel lightly with flour. (Author said to also lightly dust the pizza stone with flour at this point, but I found that I ended up with burned flour on the stone, so I don’t follow this direction.) Place dough on peel and top with desired toppings. Using small, quick back and forth motions, slide pizza from peel onto hot pizza stone. Broil pizza, cautiously rotating pizza half way through, until bottom of crust is crisp and top is blistered, 5 to 7 minutes. Using peel, transfer to work surface to slice. Repeat, allowing pizza stone to reheat under broiler for 4 to 5 minutes between pizzas. (For gas ovens adjust oven rack 8-inches below broiler element rather than the recommended 4- to 5-inches for electric ovens.)

Lahey’s Margherita Pizza: I love the classic combination of tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and fresh basil. Prepare sauce by draining one 28-ounce can of whole peeled plum tomatoes (such as San Marzano – I buy them at Albertson’s). Either break into very small pieces with hands or place in food processor and pulse 2-3 times (do not puree). Stir in 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon salt. For one pizza, you will need about 1/4 cup sauce. Spread sauce on dough, leaving 1-inch rim around edge empty. Top sauce with 6 to 7 ounces fresh mozzarella (pulled into 10 to 12 clumps). Bake as directed and transfer to platter or board.
Sprinkle with 3 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and a pinch of sea salt. Add 6 fresh basil leaves.

But just to let you know, the homemade pasta as well as the pizza at Brick is delicious. Have a look at the orecchiette (house-made sausage with mushroom medley, flowering broccoli and Pecorino) and the pappardelle (slow-roasted veal ragu and Parmigiano).

Five years ago while attending a culinary conference, I had the opportunity to take the exam that Julia took so long ago at the Cordon Bleu. It was a little stressful. But looking back, what a hoot to wing my way through my hero’s cook-it-perfect test.

 Happy 100th birthday, Julia. Thanks for the memories.

Most participants looked troubled, their foreheads furrowed, their arms tightly folded across their chests. They watched and worried as chef-instructors Patrick Martin and Kathy Shaw demonstrated a few of the steps needed to complete the recipes. We were at the Cordon Bleu in Chicago, attending an optional workshop offered as part of the International Association of Culinary Professionals’ conference.

Twenty of us (out of about 2,000 attendees) had signed up to cook our way through the three dishes that Julia Child prepared for her 1951 Cordon Bleu final exam in Paris. Julia did it without recipes. We had two out of three recipes written out for us on sheets of crisp white paper. We had recipes for cotelettes de veau en surprise as well as creme caramel. The ingredients for oeuf mollet were written on a chalkboard, but there weren’t any 1-2-3-4 procedures to clarify the process. Just ingredients.

(Julia and “the chicken sisters.”)

At her exam, Julia was handed a typewritten card that listed the names of the dishes.
“Did I remember what an oeuf mollet was? No,” she wrote in “My Life In France” (by Julia Child, with grandnephew Alex Prud’homme; Knopf, $25.95). “How could I miss that? (I later discovered that it was eggs that have been coddled and then peeled.) How about the veau ‘en surprise’? No. (A sauteed veal chop with duxelles, or hashed mushrooms, on either side, overlayed with ham slices and all wrapped up in a paper bag – the ‘surprise’ – that is then browned in the oven.) Did I remember the exact proportions for caramel custard? No.”

Julia wrote that she was stuck and had to make everything up. Studying for the test, she had focused on what she thought were more challenging dishes. She was angry with herself.

“Later that afternoon, I slipped down to the Cordon Bleu’s basement kitchen by myself,” she wrote. “I opened the school’s booklet, found the recipes from the examination … and whipped them all up in a cold fury.

“Then I ate them.”

Julia cooked alone for her exam. We would cook in teams of three. So as the chefs finished their presentation, I looked around the room for two people with relaxed expressions. Elizabeth Allen and Di-Anna Arias of San Antonio, Texas, looked calm and friendly. I knew it could be a lot of fun. So, standing in front of stainless-steel work tables in our starched Cordon Bleu aprons, we formed our team. Allen and Arias work as catering and event planners at Don Strange of Texas in San Antonio. They like to cook and take culinary classes. But it was Arias’ admiration for Julia and her generous spirit that motivated their presence at this event.

We had 1 1/2 hours to make it work. As we chopped and minced, simmered and boiled, chef Martin roamed the classroom. When he saw “students” making errors, he would make eye contact with them, then announce it to the group by voicing a single word.

“Sabotage,” he would sing in his thick French accent, loudly drawing out each syllable, but accenting the last a-a-a-a-g-g-g-u-u-u-h-h-h. The tone was jolly. And often was followed by a suggestion or two.
It was sabotage as one cook chose a shallow skillet to make a Bechamel sauce, a vessel too shallow to correctly beat the warm milk into the roux. Another thought she should add a few egg yolks to her oh-so-hot Bechamel and ended up with what looked like yucky, white scrambled eggs.
More sabotage as one cook boiled her eggs too long and produced hard-cooked instead of the eggs mollet (“soft-hearted” eggs that would be firm enough to peel but fairly soft at the yolk). Encore when mushrooms were too deeply browned.
Chef Martin sang sabotage when he thought I was sauteing veal chops at too high of a temperature. And when Allen’s Cognac and Madeira mixture caught on fire (she calmly covered it with a bigger pot, extinguishing the flames – what a team!).

As the Allen-Arias-Thomas team lined up our finished dishes for chef Martin to see and taste, we knew we had winners. Our oeuf mollet was picture-perfect. Arranged in a shallow ramekin, two soft-cooked eggs sat atop a bed of creamy spinach. They were blanketed with a perfectly caramelized Mornay (bechamel with cheese) sauce.

Despite the chef’s rumblings about over-browning the veal, our chops were moist and delicious, enclosed in puffy packets of parchment paper. The mushroom-shallot mixture that surrounded the meat was seasoned with just the right amount of salt and pepper. And, unmolded, our caramel custards stood tall on the plate; we didn’t want them to look puny, so before baking we filled the caramel-lined molds to the very top with the egg-milk mixture. They had a wonderful texture, soft, creamy and delicate.

We waited for judgment, as the chef shoveled down small bites of our dishes.
“They are very good,” he announced, quickly moving to a sabotage at the next work station.

Leaving the classroom, chef Shaw asked me how it went. I told her that her colleague had decreed our dishes “very good.”
Laughing, she told me that the dishes must have been great.
“He wouldn’t tell you they were excellent, even if they were better than HIS,” she said.
That was OK with us. We’d passed. And we’d eaten the delectable results.
Somehow, we could picture Julia smiling and pouring a glass of wine.

Test Menu:
Cotelettes de veau en Surprise (Veal Chops Surprise)
Creme Renversee au Caramel (Caramel Custard)
Oeuf mollet (Coddled and peeled eggs)

******

(Bring back some happy memories with this video  …)

http://eater.com/archives/2012/08/01/watch-a-supercut-of-julia-child-improbably-set-to-guns-n-roses.php

When I think about Lei Shishak, I conjure up images of delectable sweets.

Caramel Pecan Thumbsters, rich fudgy cookies with salted caramel in the centers sprinkled with toasted pecans. Or oh-so-rich peanut butter cookies enhanced with peanut-butter chips to boost their irresistibility. Or moist coconut macaroons dipped in luscious dark chocolate.

But Shishak, executive pastry chef and owner of Sugar Blossom Bake Shop in San Clemente, takes time off from desserts when cooking at home. At home in her San Clemente kitchen, entrees take an easy-to-prepare turn.

Poached Japanese Salmon with Brown Rice and Baby Bok Choy is a delectable example.

WATCH LEI prepare the oh-so-easy salmon in my kitchen. It’s delicious.

Poached Japanese Salmon with Brown Rice and Baby Bok Choy
Yield: 4 servings
2 baby bok choy, leaves separated
4 (about 5 ounces each) salmon fillets
3 garlic cloves, grated
1-inch piece of ginger, grated
1 bunch green onions
1/3 cup sodium-reduced soy sauce
1/4 cup sake
2 tablespoons mirin, see cook’s notes
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup chicken broth or water
Garnish: pickled ginger
For serving: cooked brown rice
Cook’s notes: Mirin is a sweet wine made from glutinous rice. It is sold in Asian markets and supermarkets with large Asian specialty sections.
1. For bok choy: Place 2 cups water in large saucepan and bring to boil on high heat. Add a pinch of salt and the individual bok choy leaves. Remove from heat, cover and set aside,
2. Thinly slice 2 green onions and set aside for garnish. Thinly slice remaining green onions and add to a medium bowl along with soy sauce, sake, mirin and pepper.
3. For salmon: Pour vegetable oil in a large, deep skillet. Put the salmon filets in and flip to coat on both sides. Rub salmon with the garlic and ginger. Pour half of the soy sauce mixture over the salmon. Bring to a simmer on medium heat; cover and gently simmer for 5 minutes. Turn salmon and add the remaining soy sauce mixture along with 1/4 cup broth or water to pan. Cook for another five minutes, covered. Remove from heat.
4. Portion brown rice onto plates or shallow bowls and put salmon on top. Pour some of the cooking liquid over fish and rice. Place pickled ginger over salmon and lean drained bok choy on fish. Garnish with the thinly sliced green onion.
Source: Lei Shishak, Executive Pastry Chef-Owner Sugar Blossom Bake Shop, San Clemente

Want Cookies?

Sugar Blossom Bake Shop

A pasta-free, feels-like-pasta dish using raw zucchini.

Jenny Ross is the chef-owner of 118 Degrees in Costa Mesa, a raw foods restaurant that showcases a cuisine that is entirely plant-based.

She utilizes fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds and sprouted grains, that when heated are taken to no more than 118 degrees. The goal is to preserve valuable nutrients.

Watch this short video, to see how easily this delicious, healthful dish comes together.

Ross grew up in Yorba Linda and had a successful career as a fashion model before opening raw food restaurants. She says that she was having digestive problems, and found that a raw food diet was the solution. Increased energy and a feeling a well being, she says, were benefits as well.

She opened the 32-seat 118 Degrees restaurant more than 4 years ago in The Camp. A wide variety of dishes, everything from coconut ceviche to lasagna to tostadas, fill the menu. But it’s a zucchini pasta dish that she most often makes in her home kitchen in Irvine. Instead of pasta, she uses linguine-like strips of zucchini. She tosses them with a perky basil-pistachio pesto and spikes that concoction with plenty of fresh lemon juice.

It’s a favorite of her two-year old daughter, Dylan. She tweaks the recipe ever so slightly for Dylan, omitting tomatoes and adding diced avocado.

118 Degrees Lemon Pesto Pasta
Yield: 4 entrees
Pesto Sauce:
2 cups fresh basil
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 medium-sized garlic cloves, peeled
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 cup shelled pistachios, walnuts, or pine nuts
Pasta:
4 medium zucchini, ends trimmed
1 lemon
1 Roma tomato, diced
Procedure:
1. In a high-powered blender (such as a Vitamix) combine basil, oil, garlic and salt. Blend (starting on low power and increasing speed slowly to high); blend on high speed until smooth and blended. Add nuts and blend on high until well combined and smooth. Pesto can be refrigerated, well sealed, up to 14 days.
2. Cut zucchini into julienne strips (long slender strips); the easiest way to do this is to use a mandolin fitted with the julienne blade. If cutting by hand use a sharp knife to cut zucchini lengthwise into long strips, 1/8-inch-by-1/8-inch.
3. In a medium-size bowl, vigorously toss zucchini with 1 cup Pesto Sauce until well coated. Cut the lemon in half and squeeze juice into pasta. Toss, then taste, adding more juice as desired. Add tomato and toss.

Videographer Curt Norris and I were so impressed with how good this dish was.

And when each of us made the pesto after the shoot, we found that it stayed deliciously emulsified when stored in our fridges for more than ten days. But for these kinda results, a heavy-duty blender, such as a Vitamix, is essential.

118 degrees restaurant
2981 Bristol Suite B5 Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714-754-0718

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