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Wing Lam, co-founder of Wahoo’s Fish Tacos, started the first Wahoo’s in 1988 along with his two brothers. There are now 65 eateries in seven states, with dishes that incorporate influences from Mexican, Brazilian and Asian cuisines.

Wing and his brothers grew up in a restaurant family and lived in San Paolo, Brazil before moving to Orange County in 1975 where their father opened Shanghai Pine Garden restaurant on Balboa Island.

Watch Wing in action as he shows his “how-to” fish taco tips in this short video.

“The Asian community is all about work, work, work, but the Brazilian culture is about play, play, play; I got a little of both,” he said, ending his sentence with one of his trademark laughs, a rapid fire joyous trill.

Lam traces his fondness for fish tacos back to his college days when he attended San Diego State University and spent his off hours surfing across the border. Rather than using the traditional battered and deep-fried fish, he modified the cooking technique to charbroil the fillets for his tacos. One of the hot sauces is Asian, and his rice and beans have Brazilian roots.

At the heart of Lam’s success are his generous spirit and affable persona, as well as his delicious fish tacos.

 Wing’s Charbroiled Fish Tacos
Yield: 4 servings
8 ounces fresh wahoo fillets or mahi mahi fillets
Garlic salt, to taste
Canola oil for brushing on grill grate
8 corn tortillas
1 to 2 ounces finely shredded cheese, a mix of Jack cheese and cheddar
1/4 to 1/2 cup (to taste) Chinese chili paste, such as Lee Kum Kee Chili Garlic Sauce or Sriracha  (rooster logo on the jar) Chili Garlic Sauce
3/4 cup finely shredded green cabbage
Fat-free spicy green sauce, to taste, see cook’s notes
Fresh pico de gallo salsa, see cook’s notes
Garnish: lime wedges
Cook’s notes: Wahoo’s spicy green sauce showcases roasted Anaheim chilies, cilantro and fat-free mayonnaise. Their sauce is proprietary, but the standard recipe at Mexican fish taco stands, according to “Amor y Tacos” by Deborah Schneider, combines1/2 cup mayonnaise with 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro and a pinch of salt. Pico de gallo is fresh tomato-based salsa that most often includes white onion, chilies, lime juice and fresh cilantro. Wahoo’s fish tacos incorporate an Asian chili sauce, a mix that Wing’s father used in his restaurant. You can substitute commercially-prepared Asian chili sauce.

1. Season fish fillets with garlic salt. Heat grill. Clean grill and brush with a little canola oil. Grill fish, 2 to 3 minutes per side, depending on heat of grill and thickness of fish.

2. Heat tortillas one at a time, using gas flame and turning with tongs, or heat in a dry skillet (not nonstick). Stack two tortillas, one on top of the other. Place a 2-ounce serving of fish on top. Sprinkle with cheese. Spoon on some Chinese hot sauce (such as Lee Kum Kee Chili Garlic Sauce); top with cabbage. Top with pico de gallo to taste. Serve with lime wedges and accompany with Brazilian-style white rice and black beans.

Source: adapted from Wing Lam, co-founder of Wahoo’s Fish Tacos.

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A quick tip from Melissas …..

Fingerling potatoes are delicious with both white wine and olive oil are used to cook them. It’s a two part process – a steam first, roast second approach. Start by preheating the oven to 375 degrees.

The halved-lengthwise fingerlings are placed in a single layer in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Pour 1/4 cup dry white wine and 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil over the potatoes. Toss. Sprinkle on 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves and season with kosher salt. Cover the dish with aluminum foil. Bake 15 minutes. Remove the foil and bake 15 to 30 minutes or until potatoes are lightly browned and tender inside – a little crisp on the outside.

With skills honed in the stellar kitchens of Thomas Keller, Michael Mina and Masaharu Morimoto, Greg Harrison brings his passion for vibrant, perfectly-balanced flavors to the new menu at Five Crowns, Corona del Mar.

Taking over the reigns as executive chef several months ago, his talent and creativity have boosted offerings to a higher level, while keeping must-have traditional favorites on the list.

With a generous nature, he consented to share the secrets to a dish that showcases salmon. He made it family-style, turning the combination into a one-platter, family-style feast. He brought a parsnip puree with its buttery hint of butterscotch to the mix, as well as pancetta-spiked, caramelized Brussels sprouts.

Harrison’s Pan-Seared Salmon with Parsnip Puree and Pancetta-Spiked Brussels Sprouts
Yield: 4 to 5 servings
2 large parsnips (or 4 medium-small), trimmed, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, see cook’s notes
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided use
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup half-and-half, plus more if needed when reheating
1 pound medium-small Brussels sprouts
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 ounces finely diced pancetta
1/2 cup chicken broth
1 1/2 pounds skin-on salmon fillet, center portion preferred
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 medium lemon
Optional garnish: society garlic blossoms
Cook’s notes: Parsnips look like large, tan or whitish-yellow carrots and are available in supermarkets with large produce sections.
1. For parsnips: Place parsnips and 2 tablespoons butter in small saucepan on medium-high heat. When butter start to sizzle, reduce heat to medium and cautiously add 2 cups water. Simmer until most of water has cooked away and pan is nearly dry and parsnips are tender. While still hot, puree in blender holding lid down with potholder. With motor running add enough half-and-half to make a creamy-smooth mixture.
2. For Brussels sprouts: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Trim bottoms of Brussels sprouts. Remove some of the prettiest outer leaves for garnish and set them aside. Cut Brussels sprouts in half lengthwise. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss halved Brussels sprouts with 2 olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast in preheated oven for 12 to 15 minutes or until tender-crisp and lightly browned. Place large skillet on medium-high heat; add pancetta. Cook until pancetta releases fat, 2 to 3 minutes, shaking pan occasionally to redistribute pancetta. Add Brussels sprouts and toss. Increase heat to high; add broth and cook until pan is almost dry. Add 1 tablespoon butter and toss.
3. For salmon: Season both sides of salmon with salt and pepper. Heat canola oil on high heat in a large ovenproof skillet until so hot the oil is shimmering and almost smoking. Reduce heat to medium-low and cautiously add salmon (on side away from you) skin-side down. Cook until skin is very crisp, spooning pan juices over the top and moving fish to different places in the pan to balance out the heat. Add 2 tablespoons butter to pan and spoon pan juices over top. Place in preheated 350-degree oven until just barely cooked through, about 8 minutes. Remove from oven (remember the handle will be hot). Squeeze juice of 1 lemon over fish. Turn fish over to brown other side for a few seconds.
4. If needed, reheat parsnip puree, stirring in a little more half-and-half if needed. Smear some of the puree on heated platter. Top with salmon skin-side up; spoon some pan juices on top of fish. Add remaining puree next to fish and add Brussels sprouts to platter. Garnish with whole raw Brussels sprouts leaves and if using, society garlic blossoms.
Source: Greg Harrison, executive chef Five Crowns and the adjacent gastropub, SideDoor.

Pancetta makes everything taste better, right?  And I love the way he used the outer leaves of raw Brussels sprouts as a crisp, colorful garnish.

Thanks Chef, the salmon was superb. ‘Loved every bite.

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….A quick tip from Melissa’s Produce….

 Botanically speaking, pomegranate seeds are arils, edible juice sacs that contain a tiny seed. Most refer to them simply as “seeds.” But whether you call them seeds or arils, if you know the underwater trick for removing those jewels, it’s a mess-free way to enjoy them!

To see how to remove the seeds underwater, have a look at this short video. It’s easy. Click here.

I love them sprinkled over chocolate ice cream or chocolate sorbet!

Feel great, yes, and have loads of energy. And eat luscious dishes! Sounds great to me! And that’s the goal of my new book, “50 Best Plants on the Planet.”

Perhaps the sub-title says it best: “The most nutrient dense fruits and vegetables in 150 recipes.” These fifty beauties are the most nutrient-dense, meaning that they have the highest vitamin and mineral content when compared with total calories.

(The hardcover version is out in limited availability. Spring will bring the softbound version for national distribution from coast to coast. Right now it’s available at www.melissas.com, or at most Bristol Farms and Mother’s Markets. In the spring, the soft-bound version will be available in national distribution from coast to coast.)

So, it’s not a diet book, per se … more a guide to packing the most good stuff into every bite. And yes, in a scrumptious way.

Here’s one example. Think you don’t like Brussels sprouts? Think again. Try pan-searing halved Brussels on medium heat in a little butter and evoo. Then put on the lid and let them cook tender-crisp. Oh, and add pistachios and dried cherries. Delicious. You’re gonna be a believer.

Sweet dried cherries and crunchy pistachios add a just-right spark to seared-and-steamed Brussels sprouts. If you buy roasted and salted pistachios, be cautious about adding salt to the recipe. If you wish to make this dish vegan, leave out the butter and double the amount of oil in Step #3.

Pan-Caramelized Brussels Sprouts with Pistachios and Dried Cherries
Yield: 4 to 6 side dish servings
1/3 cup warm water
1/4 cup coarsely chopped dried cherries
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
22 to 26 small, tightly closed Brussels sprouts, halved top to bottom
1/2 tablespoon butter and 1/2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt to taste
1/4 cup coarsely chopped pistachios, roasted preferred
1. In a small bowl combine warm water and cherries. Set aside.
2. Place halved Brussels sprouts in a bowl; drizzle with 2 teaspoons olive oil and gently toss to lightly coat.
3. Heat 1/2 tablespoon butter and 1/2 tablespoon oil in large skillet on medium heat. When butter melts, shake handle of skillet to swirl butter with oil. Place Brussels sprouts cut-side down in a single layer (pan shouldn’t be sizzling hot, or exteriors will over-brown before interiors are cooked.) Sprinkle with salt, and cover; cook until bottoms of the sprouts are starting to nicely brown and interiors are tender-crisp, about 5 minutes.
3. Remove cover. Add water and cherries; increase heat to high. Cook until water evaporates and Brussels sprouts are nicely caramelized. Transfer to platter. Scatter pistachios on top and serve.

Source: “Melissa’s 50 Best Plants on the Planet” by Cathy Thomas (Chronicle)

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I’m not suggesting that you eliminate the pumpkin pie from your Thanksgiving menu. In some families that may cause a dessert riot.

But bring out this award-winning French Apple Cream Pie alongside the traditional pumpkin. This apple delicacy could turn out to be a new Thanksgiving tradition.

Rhonda Martin, Rancho Santa Margarita, was the division winner for all pie entries at this summer’s Orange County Fair. It was this sweet-tart-custardy treasure that did the trick.

(I can testify that it was the very best pie. I was a judge and tasted over 100 entries …)

Martin cuts good-sized holes in the top crust before it bakes, then spoons warm custard into the holes once it is out of the oven. Delicious as is. No whipped cream or ice cream needed.

Pie-baking aficionado Rhonda Martin started entering pie competitions at the Fair in 2004 and has won many blue ribbons and honorable mentions.

Her French Apple Cream Pie is best served warm or at room temperature (it can sit on a cooling rack for up to 2 hours), or it can be made a day ahead, cooled, refrigerated and reheated in a 350-degree oven for about 20 to 25 minutes. When chilled the custard solidifies, so be sure to heat it before serving if it has been refrigerated.

Rhonda Martin’s French Apple Cream Pie
Yield: 8 servings
Pie crust:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2/3 cup vegetable shortening such as Crisco
6 to 8 tablespoons ice water (without ice), divided use
Pie filling:
3/4 cup sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
6 cups peeled, chunks Granny Smith apples, see cook’s notes
1 tablespoon butter, cut into 6 pieces
Garnish: 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
Custard Filling:
2 large eggs, beaten
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 ounces cream cheese, cut into small cubes, room temperature
1/2 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Minced lemon zest (lemon peel, colored portion only) of 1/2 medium-sized lemon

Cook’s notes: Cut apples into quarters; peel and core. Cut each quarter crosswise into 1/4-inch slices.

1. For the dough: Mix together all dry ingredients and then cut in shortening with pastry cutter or two knives until mixture looks like coarse meal and shortening is in small pieces (like very small peas). Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of water over the flour mixture and stir gently with a fork. Repeat until all the dough is moistened. Form dough into a ball and cut in half. Form each half into a disc shape, wrap with plastic-wrap, and place in the refrigerator until ready to roll out, at least 30 minutes (Martin usually chills it while she cuts the apples and prepares the filling).

2. For the filling: In a bowl, combine sugar, flour and cinnamon. Add apples and toss; set aside.

3. Adjust oven rack to middle; preheat oven to 400 degrees. On a dry, lightly floured surface, using a floured rolling pin, roll out 1 disk of dough to 3/16-inches thickness and ease into a 9-inch pie pan. Lightly dust work surface with flour and roll out the second disk of dough to make the top crust. Cut out 6 (1 1/2-inch) circles using a floured biscuit cutter, cookie cutter or glass (make one in the center, and five around it leaving a space between each. Place apple mixture in bottom crust in the pie pan and dot with butter. Cover pie with top crust. Pinch top and bottom crusts together around the edge of the pie pan. Fold over excess dough and crimp edge if desired, or press together with the tines of a fork. Sprinkle top crust with sugar.

4. To prevent over-browning, cover edge of pie with aluminum foil. Bake for 45 minutes and then remove foil and continue baking for another 10 to 15 minutes.

5. Custard filling: While pie bakes, place eggs and sugar in small, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat until mixture just coats a metal spoon (about 10 minutes). To coat a spoon is a culinary term that means when you drag your finger over the back of the spoon it is thick enough to leave a trail. Do not overheat or eggs will curdle. Remove from heat; add cream cheese in small amounts stirring until cream cheese melts. Stir in sour cream, lemon juice, and lemon zest.

6. Remove pie from oven and place on cooking rack. Carefully spoon custard into holes in top of pie crust. Cool slightly. Serve warm. Chill to store.

Nutrition information (per serving):  270 calories, 40 percent of calories from fat, 11 g fat,  6g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 29 g carbohydrates, 12 g protein,  280mg sodium, 0.5 g fiber

Source: Rhonda Martin, Rancho Santa Margarita

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See more ideas for Thanksgiving pizzazz at http://www.ocregister.com/articles/cut-377696-pie-minutes.html

Celebrity chef Michael Mina created his signature Tartare of Ahi Tuna almost twenty years ago when he opened his first restaurant, Aqua in San Francisco.

Now he has three restaurants in that city, plus numerous eateries from coast to coast, including Stonehill Tavern at the St. Regis Monarch Beach in Dana Point.

Instead of the standard beef-centric tartare ingredients, he riffs on the raw theme using sashimi-grade ahi tuna along with roasted chili oil, Korean pears, fresh jalapenos, pine nuts and fresh mint.

Here’s the short video that shows how Mina makes the tartare.

Adding Korean pears to the dish brings a just-right crunch.

In his restaurants he serves the dish composed on the plate. The finely diced fish is pressed into a ring mold to leave it in a tidy disk when the mold is removed. The yolk of a quail egg sits in a shallow recession at the top. The bright red mound is surrounded with individual piles of the remaining ingredients and the whole shebang is mixed at the table by the server after the guest gets to see the pretty presentation. Chic, yes, and delicious, too.

But for making at home, he said that it would be easier to mix it in one big batch in the kitchen, and form the mixture on plates pushing it with the back of a spoon into a triangle and rectangle shape on each plate. And instead of quail egg yolks, use a find-it-anywhere chicken egg yolk.

(Not sure why, but I love shots of photographers snapping photos. Here Curt Norris shoots chef Mina with his Tartare and Stonehill Tavern’s executive chef Raj Dixit with Mina’s delectable whipped ricotta spread – which will be featured in an upcoming story.)

Mina’s Tartare of Ahi Tuna
Yield: 4 servings
1 pound sashimi grade ahi tuna loin, free of sinew
2 Korean pears
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice mixed with 1 cup water, for holding pears
2 green jalapenos, veins and seeds removed, minced, seeds and veins reserved
2 red jalapenos, veins and seeds removed, minced, seeds and veins reserved
3/4 cup roasted (Asian) chili oil
2 tablespoons ancho chili powder, divided use
Leaves from 1/4 bunch fresh mint, cut into thin strips crosswise
6 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
Yolks of 4 fresh quail eggs or one yolk from large chicken egg
3/4 tablespoon minced garlic
1 1/2 tablespoons salt
8 slices country white bread, toasted, crusts removed, cut into half diagonally
Cook’s notes: Use caution when working with fresh chilies. Wash work surface thoroughly upon completion and do Not touch eyes or face. A little chili powder is dusted onto the plate after the tartare is arranged. Place the powder in a small sieve and shake handle back and forth over plate for powder to fall in the fine dust. Procedure:
1. Put 4 serving plates in refrigerator to chill. Cut tuna into 1/4-inch cubes; cover and chill. Peel, core and cut Asian pears into 1/4-inch dice. Place in water with lemon juice; set aside.
2. Cut chilies into 1/8-inch dice and mix them together in a bowl; set aside. Put sesame oil in bowl with reserved chili seeds and veins. Set aside for 15 minutes; strain through a fine mesh strainer. Cool.
3. Toss ahi with 1 1/2 tablespoons sesame chili oil and 1 tablespoon ancho chili powder. Drain pears and pat dry.
4. To present tartare mixed in one batch in the kitchen: Toss ahi mixture with pears, chilies, mint (reserve some for garnish), pine nuts, 1 egg yolk (large chicken egg), garlic and salt. Divide between 4 chilled plates, patting mixture into a triangular or rectangular shape. Place toast on each plate, garnish with mint and serve immediately. OR, to present composed on plate: Place a 2 1/2-inch wide ring mold that is 3-inches deep in middle of one chilled plate. Push down lightly with spoon to pack mold. Remove mold. Make a shallow well in center with your finger and place yolk in center. Repeat with remaining 3 plates. Sprinkle mint on plate. Arrange chilies, pears, garlic, pine nuts and toast in small individual piles around tartare. Sprinkle plate with salt and a little ancho chili powder. Drizzle about 3/4 tablespoon sesame chili oil in droplets on each plate. Serve immediately. Have each guest use a fork and spoon to vigorously mix all ingredients (except toast).
When everything is well mixed reshape the tuna into a triangle or square.

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One of the things that I love about my job is the opportunities to ferret out culinary secrets from talented chefs.

I’m crazy about the Fried Goat Cheese with Apples and Honey at Watermarc, an appetizer that showcases warm spheres of goat cheese drizzled with honey and served with crisp apples.

The honey melts over the spheres of warm cheese which are crisp and lightly browned on the outside and creamy-rich on the inside. The fruit adds irresistible crunch plus a spark of tartness, while a garnish of micro Dijon sprouts brings a smidgen of peppery attitude.

Marc Cohen, the executive chef-owner of Watermarc and 230 Forest Avenue in Laguna Beach, as well as Opah restaurants in Irvine and Aliso Viejo, generously shared the recipe with me, with the assurance that it is easy to prepare at home.

He told me that he often makes the dish in his home kitchen when entertaining. His guests, he said, love to watch the not-too-complicated process. And of course, they love to eat the tasty little fritters, too, often accompanied with chilled Gewurztraminer or Chardonnay.

Cohen’s father was an art professor with a deep appreciation for the work of artist Marc Chagall, a fondness that gave rise to his son’s name. And indeed, Marc Cohen has the eye of an artist. Yes, the tastes and textures of his dishes are in harmony, but the beautiful presentations on the plate also play an important role.  For a passed appetizer, he serves bite-sized portions in Asian soup spoons. Plated as a first course, he alternates thin slices of skin-on apples with the warm spheres of cheese.

He lives in Mission Viejo with his wife and three children.

Watermarc’s Fried Goat Cheese with Apples and Honey
Yield: 6 servings
3 ounces goat cheese, see cook’s notes
1/2 cup all-purpose flour mixed with 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, 1/4 teaspoon granulated garlic, 1/4 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning and 1/4 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1 unpeeled Granny Smith apple, cut in half, cored
1 unpeeled Fuji apple, cut in half, cored
Fresh juice of lime half
Fresh juice of lemon half
1 tablespoon clover honey
2 tablespoons lemon lime soda, such a Sprite or 7-Up
Vegetable oil or canola oil for deep-frying
1 cup chilled buttermilk
Garnish: clover honey
Garnish: Dijon microgreens, see cook’s notes
Cook’s notes: Cheese shouldn’t be too cold or too warm when rolling into spheres. It needs to be pliable. Chef Cohen uses Laurel Chenel goat cheese. Old Bay Seasoning is a mix that includes mustard, paprika, celery seed, bay leaf, both black and red pepper, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, cardamom, salt, and ginger. Dijon microgreens are difficult to find. I use the mixed microgreens sold at Trader Joe’s (sold in plastic containers in the refrigerated vegetable case). Or use baby arugula. If serving as a plated first course, rather than dicing the apples, thinly slice them and alternate the slices vertically with the spheres. If you prefer, deep-fry spheres before guests arrive and reheat on baking sheet in a 350-degree oven for 5 to 7 minutes.

1. Cut goat cheese into 1/2-ounce pieces. Dip palms of hands into flour to lightly coat and roll cheese into spheres; chill 35 to 40 minutes.
2. For passed appetizers: Cut apples into 1/4-inch slices. Cut lengthwise into 1/4-wide matchsticks. Cut crosswise into 1/4-inch dice. Place in bowl. Toss with juices, honey and soda. Set aside.
3. Place 4 inches of oil in a deep pot (that is at least 8 inches deep) on high heat. Bring to 375 degrees (use a deep-fat fryer thermometer) and regulate heat to maintain that temperature, reducing or increasing heat when needed. Place buttermilk in bowl next to stove. Place flour mixture in a shallow container next to buttermilk bowl and place a plate lined with paper towels next to it. Roll chilled cheese spheres in flour, then into buttermilk, letting excess buttermilk drip off. Roll again in flour. Cautiously lower into heated oil; do not overcrowd pan. Fry until lightly browned, about 20 to 30 seconds; drain on paper towels. Use a slotted spoon to place a bite-sized amount of apples (without liquid) in each Asian spoon. Top each with warm goat cheese sphere. Drizzle a little honey on top of each sphere and garnish with Dijon microgreens or arugula microgreens. Serve immediately.
Source: executive chef Marc Cohen, Watermarc, Laguna Beach

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A quick tip from Melissa’s …

Baked Apples. Scrumptious, right?

And prepared in the slow cooker they make an irresistible breakfast. New slow cookers automatically shift to warm when the cooking is complete. So put them on before you go to bed and the whole house will smell like apple pie in the morning.

Granny Smiths or Ambrosia, Fuji or Gala …

They are all delicious cooked this way. Serve them with a dollop of yogurt or garnish of granola. Either way these lovely warm apples are superb.

“Baked” Apples a la Slow Cooker

Yield: 4  apples
4 large apples, Granny Smith, or Gala, Ambrosia, or Fuji
1/2 cup packed brown sugar, dark or light
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons raisins or dried currants
3 tablespoons dried cranberries or dried cherries
2 teaspoons butter
1/3 cup apple juice
1. Core apples 3/4 of the way down from stem end using a melon baller. In a bowl combine sugar, cinnamon and dried fruit. Place apples in slow cooker (preferably the newer style that automatically shifts to warm when cooking is complete). Spoon sugar mixture into the cavities of the apples, reserving any leftover sugar-cinnamon mixture. Dot tops of apples with butter. Sprinkle reserved sugar-cinnamon mixture over tops of apples. Pour apple juice around (but not over) apples.

2. Set slow cooker to 4 hours on low. Voila!

PIG EAR LUST: Yes I love super-crunchy thin strips of fried pig ears. Can’t help it.

And thanks to Marche Moderne’s Amelia and Florent Marneau, I found pig bliss on my plate last Saturday night.

Modern Choucroute Dinner is $30 per person, or “en cocotte” for two at $55. This one is en cocotte for two.

Now through November 11 on the dinner menu, Marche Moderne is offering their interpretation of Modern Choucroute (sauerkraut plus pork NINE different ways).

Pork nine ways includes: braised cheek, Snake River Farms short ribs, pork belly, jambonneau, ham hocks au court bouillon, saucisse de Strasbourg fraîche, saucisse fumé and crispy pig’s feet. And yes, crispy pig ears!

Served with sauerkraut, Weiser Farms German butterball potatoes and Dijon mustard.

The choucroute is plated in a long oval bowl; the lip of the bowl is  garnished with Dijon mustard and thinly sliced capicola-esque pork.

Yes, of course I was full!

But I just couldn’t leave without ordering one of Amelia’s glorious desserts.

Warm pear clafouti and made-in-house ice creams. Delicious.

I love fall. Yes, and that choucroute with pig ears.

I’ve loved to cook as long as I can remember. I know it comes from an insatiable appetite, but part of it is fueled by curiosity.  Nosiness about the cooks I’ve met along the way.

Old Jess’ stews are one of my earliest food memories. At 3 or 4, I sampled my first spoonful. I relished being part of the magical grown-up cooking process, witnessing the transformation of raw ingredients into something delectably soupy.

He’d lift me up level with his grizzled gray beard, so that I could peer into the pot, as chunks of meat along with vegetables and a hodgepodge of seasonings simmered into mouth-watering tenderness.

I sorry to say that I never knew his real name; I thought his first name was “Old” and his last name was “Jess.” He’d been homeless for several years when Dad hired him to work at his Hollywood garden-furniture business in the 1940s. He lived in a room that Dad built for him in the back, next to the modest factory where redwood two-by-fours were turned into tables, benches and armchairs. Dad developed the concept of making patio furniture from redwood during the war, when hardwoods were unavailable.

At night, Jess was the company’s night watchman, although I can’t imagine much watching was going on. During the day, he was the staff stew chef.

Noontime brought everyone to the table. Hank the carpenter, who smelled of redwood sawdust and wore an intriguing work belt filled with assorted tools and nails. Mabel the seamstress, who turned rolls of brightly colored canvas into cushions; she had threads and tiny fabric swatches clinging to her apron; occasionally tufts of snowy kapok clung to her hair. Dad and his salesperson escaped the pristine showroom in front, where large display windows faced busy Cahuenga Pass (now Cahuenga Blvd West), adjacent to the spot where Universal Studios theme park would later be erected.

The lunch setting would give a coronary to today’s Occupational Safety and Health Administration official. Old Jess ladled his concoction of the day into mismatched soup bowls from an ancient two-burner stove in one corner of the factory. The dining table was a large, well-worn workbench. Its irregular surface had hammer-carved craters. Our stew bowls sat at cockeyed angles.

Much of the table’s legs were buried in drifts of sawdust. Soda crackers still in their waxed paper wrappers were the centerpiece, along with bottles of hot sauce and vinegar-soaked chilies.

Later, my culinary training would teach me fancy names for stews, but in my heart I treasure the memory of tomato-sauce laced, rust-red slumgullions. They bubbled to the shrill accompaniment of band saws.

I close my eyes and smell that blend of simmered meat and sawdust.

First sear the meat on all sides to a rich brown. One of the tricks to doing this properly is to pat the chunks dry with a paper towel. When browning, leave spaces between the pieces of meat in the pan. Resist the temptation to jam them all in at once. Instead, brown in two or three small batches, adding more vegetable oil if the pan goes dry. Proper browning gives a deep flavor, as well as a pleasing color, to the sauce and meat. Stews are great make-ahead dishes. Make them a day in advance and the flavors develop even more. Refrigeration makes the fats congeal at the top of the container, so it can easily be removed.

Bring out big soup spoons and the crusty bread. I like that fact that this yields a substantial amount; cool leftovers and freeze in airtight “freezer” zipper-style bags, pushing out the air before sealing.

Beef Stew with Potatoes, Carrots and Butternut Squash
Yield: 10 to 12 servings
5 pounds boneless chuck (not too lean) cut into 2-inch pieces
2 teaspoons coarse salt and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil or canola oil, or a mixture of olive oil and canola oil, plus more if needed, divided use
3 medium carrots, each cut crosswise into three pieces
3 stalks celery, each cut crosswise into three pieces (include leaves if you have them)
2 medium onions, quartered
1 head garlic, cut head in half through the “equator” (leave unpeeled)
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
1 (750-ml) bottle dry red wine (about 3 3/4 cups)
1 bay leaf
2 generous-sized sprigs fresh thyme
3 cups sodium-reduced beef broth
3 cups water
Vegetables:
2 pounds very small unpeeled white potatoes or Baby Dutch Yellow potatoes, halved if smaller than a Ping-Pong ball, quartered if a little larger
1 pound carrots, peeled, cut on the diagonal into 1-inch lengths
1 cup (peeled, cut into 3/4-inch cubes) butternut squash, see cook’s notes
Optional garnishes: blanched tender-crisp sugar snap peas, microgreens, chopped parsley, blanched peas
Cook’s notes: Many markets sell butternut squash that is peeled and cubed.
1. Adjust oven rack to bottom third. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Pat beef dry and season with salt and pepper. In a heavy ovenproof pot, heat 2 tablespoon oil on medium-high heat. When oil begins to shimmer, add 1/3of meat in single layer, leaving space between meat. Set a rimmed baking sheet next to the stove. Using tongs, turn meat once it has browned and brown on opposite side. Place on rimmed baking sheet and add another batch of meat, adding more oil as needed. Keep the pot hot enough so meat browns rather than steams.
2. Reduce heat to medium and add carrots, celery, onions and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned, about 10 minutes. Push vegetables to one side of the pan. Add tomato paste to side without vegetables and cook 2 minutes, using a spatula to scrape up browned bits on pot. Add vinegar and cook 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add wine, bay leaf and thyme. Increase heat to high and boil for 4 minutes.
3. Add broth and water, beef and any accumulated juices in rimmed baking sheet. Bring to a simmer; cover and place in oven for 2 1/2 hours. Remove from oven and uncover. Place a colander over a second pot and cautiously pour stew into colander. Allow it to rest 10 minutes. Remove meat from vegetable-herb mixture and set aside. Discard solids left in colander. Using a skimmer or a large spoon, skim fat from surface of broth; return to heat and bring to simmer on medium-high heat. Add potatoes and carrots; simmer 10 minutes. Add beef and butternut squash; simmer until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Ladle into bowls and garnish as desired.
Nutrition information (per serving): 410 calories, 38 percent of calories from fat, 17 g fat, 3.2 g saturated fat, 5 mg cholesterol, 23 g carbohydrates, 40 g protein, 340 mg sodium, 2 g fiber

Old Jess made white beans flavored with Tabasco and ketchup. This rendition is far more hoity-toity, adding some appealing root vegetables and finishing with a garnish of basil pesto. Use dried cannellini beans if you can find them, or use Great Northern white beans that are available at all supermarkets. If soup thickens too much on standing, stir in some water until desired consistency is reached.

White Bean Soup with Pesto
Yield: 6 servings
1 pound (about 2 cups) dried white beans
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 1/2 quarts chicken broth or vegetable broth
3/4 teaspoon chopped rosemary, fresh or dried
1 3/4 teaspoons salt
3 carrots, peeled, chopped
4 stalks celery, chopped
1 turnip, peeled, chopped
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Garnish: 1/2 cup basil pesto, see cook’s notes
Garnish: 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
Cook’s notes: With the food processor running, add 1 large clove of peeled garlic. Add 3/4 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves and 1/2 teaspoon salt; puree. With motor running, add 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil in thin steam. When blended, add 2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts, 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese and 1 teaspoon room temperature butter. Process long enough to finely chop pine nuts.
1. Soak beans overnight in enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Drain.
2. In large pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are softened, about 5 minutes. Add drained beans, broth and rosemary. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for 1 hour. Add salt and continue cooking until beans are tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Add carrots, celery, turnip and pepper; simmer until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.
3. Puree 2 cups of bean mixture with some of the liquid in food processor. Stir puree into soup. Ladle into bowls and top each serving with a swirl of pesto. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.
Nutrition information (per serving): 350 calories, 25 percent of calories from fat, 9 g fat, 2.3 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 49 g carbohydrates,18 g protein, 851 mg sodium, 5.3 g fiber
Source: Adapted from “Soups and Stews” by Food & Wine Books (American Express, out of print)

The classic dish, Chicken with Forty Cloves of Garlic, is braised in a conventional oven in a closed pot, turning the garlic into sweet creaminess. This rendition uses the slow cooker; you conveniently load it and set to 8 hours on low. I’ve reduced the number of garlic cloves from 40 to 20 because I think that amount is better suited to slow cooker preparation. This is one of the few recipes for which I buy peeled garlic cloves. It is more expensive that way, but saves a lot of time. I buy the jumbo packs of chicken thighs for this dish that usually contain 10 to 12 bone-in, skin-on thighs; I pull the skin off and discard it.

Slow Cooker Chicken with 20 Cloves of Garlic
Yield: 8 servings
1 tablespoon herbes de Provence, see cook’s notes
1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
10 to 12 bone-in, skinless chicken thighs
Nonstick vegetable spray or olive oil spray
20 medium-sized garlic cloves, peeled
1 stalk celery, thinly sliced
1 medium-large onion, halved top to bottom, peeled, thinly sliced crosswise
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup sodium-reduced chicken broth
Garnish: chopped Italian parsley
Cook’s notes: Herbes de Provence is a mixture of dried herbs frequently used in the South of France. Mixture varies, but most often it contains rosemary, marjoram, thyme and savory. McCormick provides one in their “Gourmet Collection” line that is sold at many supermarkets.
1. In a large bowl, stir together herbs, pepper flakes, salt, pepper, juice and oil. Add chicken and toss to coat chicken with mixture. Lightly spray 5- or 6-quart slow cooker with nonstick spray. Add one layer of chicken. Top with half of garlic, celery and onion. Add remaining chicken and vegetables. Pour in wine and broth around the edges.
2. Cover and cook on low setting for eight hours. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve in shallow bowls topped with generous amount of finely chopped parsley. If you like, you can serve this soupy dish in a bowl over a mound of couscous or brown rice.
Nutrition information (per serving): 350 calories, 48 percent of calories from fat,  18.9g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 80 mg cholesterol, X4 g carbohydrates, 41 g protein, 577 mg sodium, 1.3 g fiber

Traveling by barge isn’t for everyone. The pace is luxuriously slow, so guests get a close-up gander at a relatively small geographic area, both canal-side and when touring on the barge’s van.

If visiting a country for the first time, travelers might not be charmed. But for me, a long-time Francophile, nothing could be sweeter as part of a French vacation.

Gliding aboard the Meanderer, a three passenger-cabin barge designed to spoil six guests, I savored the Upper Loire region in all its glory. For seven days, along with my husband and four dear friends, we barged from St. Mammes to Montargis.

There was the ooh-and-aah beauty of the fall French countryside with its picturesque cottages; dense forests and colorful landscapes with tree branches that made leafy canopies over our deep-green waterways and grassy banks. Villages in which the citizenry compete to create the best floral landscapes; a panel awards each town a rating of one to four based on their displays.

Magical chateaux, the vineyards of Sancerre and a hot-air balloon ride.

But it is the mouth-watering meals prepared by the very talented on-board chef that haunt me. Menus that now make me feel a little deprived, like a bratty child on Christmas Day pouting after opening a mountain of presents only to discover that none of them contained a pony.

It is chef Sylvain Moretto’s lunches I miss the most, meals that each day showcased three irresistible vegetable-based salads teamed with a delicious meat or fish.

Two wines accompanied each midday meal. Yes, and as a finale, two bewitching cheeses along with toothsome artisanal breads and some of the best butter on earth.

Moretto, born in Dijon, France, started cooking on luxury hotel-barges thirteen years ago at age 20, after completing a four-year restaurant apprenticeship. It is a career that he seems to greatly enjoy. His dimpled face erupted into wide, impish smiles when he described his dishes to us before each meal.

He takes great pride in the top quality ingredients he uses, explaining that the Meanderer owners, Susan and George Kovalick (she’s the guide, he’s the captain), give him free rein to buy the best ingredients. That’s the freedom to buy what he wants and needs, even though that often equates to higher grocery prices.

The sole he served tasted fresh-caught sweet. It was perhaps the best Sole Meunière I’ve ever tasted. He explained that he had gone to the market extra-early in that morning before the doors had opened, so he could select the fish from the truck before it made its delivery.

On his ambrosial salads, every ingredient was super-fresh and filled with flavor. He used oh-so-fresh nut oils made from walnuts or hazelnuts. Their flavor nuanced his salads along with a little crème fraiche or the subtle tartness of a specialty vinegar, chopped toasted nuts or fresh herbs.

Palate memories dance in my brain as I look at my lunch, a boring sandwich on my desk next to the computer. The clatter from my keyboard and the seemingly endless racket from a neighbor’s leaf-blower fill my noggin, instead of the sound of water gently lapping against the hull of a gentrified 1948 Belgian “Spitz” commercial barge.

Cooking is the “homesick” cure; so often it is. So here’s a menu based on some of my lunch-time favorites enjoyed on the Meanderer, a meal that will be perfect for entertaining family and friends throughout fall and winter. Merveilleux!

 Menu:
Sausage in Brioche served with assorted mustards and cornichons
Spinach Salad with Beets, Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Port Salut Cheese
 Celery and Apple Salad with Crème Fraiche
A Starch-Based Salad of Choice, such as Warm Potato Salad
Cheese Course: Mimolette and Camembert au Calvados
Wines: Chilled Sancerre (Sauvignon Blanc) and Pinot Noir

Sausage in brioche teams two of my favorite ingredients: smoked sausage and brioche, that buttery, egg-enriched French bread. If you have a free-standing mixer, brioche is very easy to prepare. You can make it a day ahead and let it develop slowly in the refrigerator, or let it rise in a warm location for about 2 hours.

Brioche (Used to Encase Sausage)
Yield: enough to encase about 1 1/4 pounds of sausage, about 8 servings
1 (1/4-ounce or 7 grams) package active dry yeast, see cook’s notes
1/4 cup warm milk, see cook’s notes
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 1/2 sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter
3 cups all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 egg yolk
Cook’s notes: Check the “sell-by” date on the package of yeast to make sure it isn’t past that date. Often I buy them in packets of three and the date of the third packet has a way of expiring before I use it. Not good. Milk should feel warm to the touch, not hot, about 100 degrees.
1. In a small bowl combine yeast, milk and sugar; stir to combine and set aside for 5 minutes. It will bubble; make sure before you add it to the flour mixture that the yeast has dissolved. Set aside.

2. Place all remaining ingredients in the large bowl of an electric mixer. Start mixing on low speed using the flat paddle attachment. Add yeast mixture and mix on medium speed for 6 minutes, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl 1 or 2 times. Dough should be very elastic and should release easily when pulled.

3. You have two options. One, place dough in large bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate and use the next day. OR two, place dough in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm (but not hot) location for 2 hours or until doubled in bulk. I think the cold-from-the-fridge dough is easier to work with. (Directions for kneading and wrapping are in Sausage in Brioche recipe.)
Nutrition information (per serving): 170 calories, 40 percent of calories from fat, 7 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 50 mg cholesterol, 25 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 340 mg sodium, 0.1 g fiber
Source: adapted from “La Methode” by Jacques Pepin (various publishers, has been republished many times since it was pinned in 1979)

When serving Sausage in Brioche for lunch, I accompany it with an assortment of interesting mustards for optional topping, as well as a good-sized bowl of cornichons, those little French sour gherkin pickles flavored with tarragon. Chef Sylvain Moretto topped the slices with a light Port sauce, which was a delicious alternative.

Sausage in Brioche
Yield: about 8 servings
1 batch of brioche dough (recipe included)
All-purpose flour for dusting
2 (3/4-pound each) smoked sausage, such as wide smoked kielbasa, see cook’s notes
Egg Wash: 1 egg beaten with 1 egg yolk
1 teaspoon softened butter
1 tablespoon fresh bread crumbs
Cook’s notes: Traditionally, cooked (and cooled) French garlic sausage (about 2 inches wide and 10 inches long) is used. I have used kielbasa as well as Aidell’s bulk (11-inches long) smoked Andouille that was purchased at the butcher counter at Bristol Farms Market; it’s spicy sausage but not over-the-top hot.
1. On a lightly floured surface, knock down dough. Cut in half and dust each half with a little flour. Flatten each piece with your hands into a rectangle about 3/8-inches thick. Brush sausages and top surface of brioche with egg wash. Sprinkle a little flour on top of the dough. Place a sausage in middle of each rectangle of dough. Wrap dough towards the top and encase sausage. Press to seal dough. Put leftover egg wash in the refrigerator for later use.

2. Using 2 pieces of aluminum foil, big enough to generously wrap around brioche (there needs to be room for expansion), butter 2/3 of the surface (the middle portion) and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Place brioche wrapped sausage on portion of foil that is buttered and sprinkled with crumbs.  Wrap foil around leaving a little room for expansion. Seal ends and place on rimmed baking sheet. Place in warm part of kitchen (about 80 degrees is best) and let it rest 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place seam-side up and bake in preheated oven 40 minutes, rotating the packets a quarter turn every 10 to 15 minutes so the sausage doesn’t sink into the dough on one side more than the other.

3. Remove from oven and increase temperature to 400 degrees; remove foil. Brush again with egg wash. Bake 5 to 8 minutes to nicely brown surface. Allow to rest 10 to 15 minutes before cutting crosswise into slices, about 1 1/2-inches thick.
Nutrition information ( per serving): 400 calories, 69 percent of calories from fat,  31 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 95 mg cholesterol, 27 g carbohydrates, 13 g protein, 1440 mg sodium, 0.1 g fiber
Source: adapted from “La Methode” by Jacques Pepin (various publishers, has been republished many times since it was pinned in 1979)

Most chefs don’t use exact measurements when they prepare salads. Fresh vegetables and fruits vary in their taste, so there is a lot of sampling going on during the preparation; a little more of this, and little less of that. So I have written the salad recipes in narrative format, hoping that you will keep a keen eye on things as you go along and taste in the process.

Spinach Salad with Beets, Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Port Salut Cheese: Place about 6 to 7 cups of loosely packed, clean baby spinach in a large bowl. Peel 1 1/2 medium fresh beets (raw) and cut into the thinnest slices possible (use a mandoline if you have one); add to spinach. Drain 4 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes and cut into 3/8-inch pieces; add to spinach. Cut about 2 to 3 ounces of semi-soft cheese, such as Port Salut or Havarti, into 3/8-inch cubes; add to spinach. Drizzle enough roasted hazelnut oil (available through Sur la Table, Bristol Farms, specialty shops and online) over the top to lightly coat the leaves once it is tossed; toss. Add Champagne vinegar or sherry vinegar, using about 1/3 the amount of oil that was used (ratio should be 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar). Add coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Taste; adjust seasoning as needed.

Celery and Apple Salad with Crème Fraiche: Cut two hearts of celery into thin crosswise slices and place in bowl. Cut two cored, unpeeled apples (Gala, Ambrosia or Fuji) into 1/2-inch cubes; add to celery. Add enough crème fraiche to very lightly coat the celery and apples; toss. (Crème fraiche is a thick cultured cream that looks like sour cream, but has a nuttier taste. It is sold at Trader Joe’s and some supermarkets, generally stocked with – or close to- the specialty cheeses.) Add finely chopped Italian parsley (be generous) and coarse salt to taste. If you want it perkier, add a little fresh lemon juice and toss. Sprinkle with a little bit of ground paprika and toss. If desired, add some chopped toasted pecans or almonds.

Cheese to please: Mimolette and Camembert with Calvados are two of my favorite French cheeses. Mimolette is dark orange, the color of pumpkin flesh. It’s a hard cheese and as you chew it, delicious flavors develop in the mouth; according to Chef Moretto “it grabs the back of your teeth.”  Camembert au Calvados combines two of Normandy’s best exports, Camembert and Calvados (apple brandy). I found both cheeses at Bristol Farms, but there are several great cheese sources in Orange County.

Michael Rossi, executive chef at The Ranch Restaurant and Saloon in Anaheim, recently won a Golden Foodie Award for the best steak in Orange County.  His oh-so-tender filet mignons sit atop purees of butternut squash and are flavor-spiked with sun-dried cherries, braised cipolline onions and black truffles.

Delicious, indeed.

Part of Rossi’s training and work experience took place in Italy, but he masters New World dishes with the same finesse as those with European roots.

One example is his Caesar Salad, a not-too-difficult approach in which he uses a blender to whip up the dressing.

The leaves remain whole and he uses his impeccably clean hands to gently rotate the greens with the dressing rather than chopping and tossing with tongs.

It looks prettier, but more than that, the leaves stay crisp and un-bruised.

The Ranch’s Caesar Salad
Yield: 4 servings
4 egg yolks
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 white anchovy, minced
6 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Juice of 1 lemon, see cook’s notes
4 shakes Tabasco sauce
1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon Mustard
1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided use
1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
1 cup freshly grated Sonoma Dry Jack cheese, plus more for optional garnish, see cook’s notes
1 1/2 cups blended oil (80 percent canola oil combined with 20 percent extra-virgin olive oil), divided use
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Minced zest of 1 lemon
Green baby romaine and red (or purple) baby romaine, or Little Gems Lettuces
Cook’s notes: Sonoma Dry Jack cheese is made much like fresh Monterey Jack, but is further aged, often between 7 and 10 months. It is firm with a nutty sweet taste. If you prefer, substitute Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino. Remove the zest of the lemon before squeezing out the juice. Little Gems lettuce is a variety that is small and compact; it is crisp like romaine, but sweet like butter lettuce.

1. To make the dressing: Add egg yolks, garlic, anchovy, vinegar, lemon juice, hot sauce, Dijon mustard, and half the kosher salt to a blender and process for 30 seconds until the mixture is smooth. Add about 1 tablespoon blended oil and pulse to blend.
2. With the blender motor running on slow speed, pour the blended oil in a thin steam into the blender so that the dressing to emulsifies; with motor running, pour in extra-virgin olive oil to add richness to the dressing.
3. Stir in the Sonoma Dry Jack cheese, remaining kosher salt, freshly cracked black pepper and lemon zest; set aside. (Refrigerate the dressing if you will not be using it right away.)
4. Add whole leaves of baby romaine lettuce into a large bowl; place enough dressing to generously coat the leaves off to the side of the bowl. You can toss in a conventional way, but Chef Rossi uses his impeccably clean hand to rotate the leaves through the dressing so they were coated to perfection and weren’t bruised. If desired, garnish with additional Sonoma Dry Jack cheese and/or croutons. Serve immediately.
Source: Michael Rossi, executive chef The Ranch Restaurant and Saloon, Anaheim

The Ranch Restaurant and Saloon, 1025 East Ball Road, Anaheim, 714-687-6336

Sonoma Dry Jack cheese

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…. A Quick Tip from Melissa’s Produce ….

Mache is a delectable spoon-shaped lettuce that has a subtle nutty flavor.

Mache’s bright leaves cluster in small, loose heads.

Sometimes it is labeled “lamb’s lettuce,” a name acquired due to the leaf’s resemblance to the shape of a lamb’s tongue.

In this delicious salad, the mache serves as a bright green backdrop for a baby heirloom tomato concoction dressed with a hot bacon dressing. Irresistible.

Mache and Baby Heirloom Tomato Salad with Hot Bacon Dressing

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Dressing:

6 ounces sliced bacon (about 6 slices)

1/4 cup water

1/4 cup cider vinegar

Salt to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 cups assorted baby heirloom tomatoes, halved top to bottom

3 cups chilled mache

1. Cook bacon in a large deep skillet on medium heat until crisp. Using tongs transfer bacon to paper towels to drain, leaving the fat in the skillet. Remove skillet from heat and pour off all but about 2 tablespoons of fat. Add water and vinegar to skillet and return to medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer, whisking constantly for 1 minute. Add salt and pepper.

2. Place tomatoes in a bowl. Pour dressing on top and gently toss. Crumble bacon and add to mixture; gently toss. Place mache on a platter. Spoon tomato mixture on top and serve immediately.