Jason Quinn, executive chef-owner of the downtown Santa Ana restaurant Playground, is one of the most talked about chefs in Orange County. His chef-driven menu reflects impressive culinary talent combined with the courage to create outside the norm.

The founding chef of the illustrious Lime Truck, Quinn knows how to build vibrant layers of flavor without making dishes seem overly complicated.

High quality ingredients are a top priority, evident in even the simplest dishes, such as Playground’s Sautéed Chard with Fresno Chilies and Garlic. Slices of bright-red fresh chilies and garlic give the leafy organic greens a just-right spark.

The locally-sourced Rainbow chard is blanched (stems and all), then drained, cut into strips and sautéed. It’s the kind of dish that creates dyed-in-the-wool chard fans.  And yes, it’s easy to prepare.

Playground’s Sautéed Chard with Fresno Chilies and Garlic

Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Kosher salt
1/2 to 1 red Fresno chili (use jalapeno if red Fresno is not available)
3 large bunches chard, Rainbow variety preferred
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large garlic clove, peeled, thinly sliced crosswise
1. Bring a large deep saucepan or Dutch oven three-fourths full of water to a boil on high heat. Add enough salt to make the water salty. Chef Quinn says it should be “salted like the ocean.” Set a cooling rack on a rimmed baking sheet next to the stove, or spread out a couple of clean kitchen towels.
2. Meanwhile, starting at small end of the chili, cut it into thin crosswise slices. If using a whole chili rather than just half, after slicing the half of the chili near the tip into rounds, remove seeds from remaining larger half with tip of a pointing paring knife and slice it. Set aside. Use caution when working with fresh chilies; wash work surface thoroughly upon completion and do not touch eyes or face.
3. When salted water comes to a boil, add chard in batches, cooking it 1 to 2 minutes or until it wilts and stems start to soften slightly. Remove with tongs and drain well on towel or rack. Repeat until all chard is wilted and stems are slightly softened. Pat dry and cut chard crosswise into 3/8-inch wide strips.
4. Heat oil in large, deep skillet on medium-high heat. Add garlic and chili slices; cook just long enough for garlic to start to lightly brown. Add chard and cook, tossing until thoroughly heated. Season with salt to taste.
Source: Jason Quinn, executive chef-owner Playground restaurant, Santa Ana
cathythomascooks.com

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In France, families gather at mother’s or grandmother’s house on Sunday for a traditional midday meal.

Part of the pleasure, especially for the host or hostess, is that guests and family arrive with contributions to the meal. And, most often, those offerings aren’t cooked at home. They’re purchased along the way. Upscale takeout is nothing new in France.

Ride the Metro (the Parisian subway) late on a crowded Sunday morning, and you’ll see passengers juggling fancy to-go boxes tied with ribbons or string. Small fabric shopping bags bulge with cheeses wrapped in thick paper. They’re off to Sunday lunch en famille.

Americanized versions of a French Sunday lunch can be the source of great joy.

In a French home, there can be four or five courses, but I’m content with a buffet-style meal, plus dessert. I prepare the roasted meat and the salad and rely on friends and family to provide the rest.

A Sunday roast brings back so many fond childhood memories for me, happy gatherings with well-seared roasts as the menu’s centerpiece. Experience tells me that the smell of roasting meat and the pan juices that form around it, whet appetites long before the meal is served.

“All About Roasting” by Molly Stevens (W.W. Norton, $35) is a new cookbook that demystifies the art of roasting meat. It offers well-detailed recipes that produce roasts with perfectly caramelized exteriors and juicy interiors. Here’s a taste of some of my favorites, so far, including a very tasty way to roast inexpensive chicken drumsticks. I can’t wait to test many more recipes from this informative book, and get some meat-juice splotches on its pristine pages.

One steadfast tip to ensure meat cookery success: buy an instant-read thermometer.

Pork tenderloin is a lean cut that lends itself well to filling with flavorful stuffing before roasting. For this roulade (from the French word rouler which means “to roll”), the tenderloin is cut lengthwise, almost in half, opened like a book and pounded until thin. Once stuffed it is rolled like a jellyroll, tied and roasted. I like the fact that the meat can be stuffed and rolled several hours in advance and refrigerated, then pan seared and roasted for 18 to 24 minutes.

Pork Tenderloin Roulade with Fig-Cherry Stuffing
Yield: 4 servings
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cup finely chopped onions or shallots
Kosher salt
1/4 cup coarsely chopped (about 1/2 inch) dried figs
2 tablespoons finely chopped dried tart cherries
1/4 cup ruby port
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, minced
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
Freshly ground black pepper
1 ounce prosciutto, minced (about 1/4 cup)
1 pork tenderloin (1 to 1 1/4 pounds), trimmed
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Sauce:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cup finely chopped shallots
2 tablespoons ruby port
3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1 to 2 tablespoons crème fraiche or heavy whipping cream
1. Position oven rack to center; preheat to 325 degrees. If you are stuffing and rolling the pork in advance, wait to heat the oven 30 minutes before roasting.
2. For stuffing: Heat butter in small skillet over medium heat. Add onions and pinch of salt; cook, stirring frequently until onions, soften, about 6 minutes. Add figs, cherries, port, rosemary and bay leaf. Lower heat to gently simmer until fruit is soft, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to vigorous simmer and simmer until most of liquid evaporates, about 3 minutes. Add zest and several grinds of pepper. Set aside to cool. When cool, remove bay leaf and stir in prosciutto. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.
3. Butterfly and stuff pork: Cut tenderloin lengthwise in half, stopping about 1/2 inch before it is cut into 2 pieces. Open it like a book and cover with plastic wrap. Pound with mallet or bottom of sturdy saucepan until meat is about 1/4- to 1/3-inch thick. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Spread stuffing evenly over pork, leaving a 1 1/2 inch border on the long side farthest from you. Starting with the long side closest to you, roll into a snug tube shape. Secure with cotton string is several places.
4. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add oil, tilting pan to cover surface. Add pork, seam side up. Brown, turning with tongs to brown all but one side (the side with the seam), about a total of 8 minutes. Turn seam-side down and place in oven. Roast, turning after 10 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted at the thickest point reaches 145 degrees, 18 to 24 minutes. Careful, the handle will be hot. Transfer pork, seam side down, to cutting board, preferably one with a trough.
5. Prepare sauce: Off heat, add butter to skillet. Holding handle with potholder, tilt skillet to distribute butter. Return to medium heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add port, scraping the bottom of skillet to dissolve any drippings (and any bits of stuffing) and cook until almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Add broth and any juices from the cutting board and simmer vigorously until reduced by a little more than half, about 4 minutes. Add crème fraiche or cream; simmer for a minute or so. Taste and season as needed.
6. Cut pork into 1/2-inch thick slices (if blade tears meat, use a serrated knife), snipping strings as you go. Stir any juices that are released into the sauce. Arrange 2 to 4 slices on each plate and spoon sauce over meat. Pass any remaining sauce at the table.
Nutrition information (per serving): 390 calories, 55 percent of calories from fat, 24 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 70 mg cholesterol, 22 g carbohydrates, 21 g protein, 356 mg sodium, 2.1
Source: adapted from “All About Roasting” by Molly Stevens (W.W. Norton, $35)

“Authentic tandoori chicken takes its name from a tandoor, an enormous cylindrical clay pot used in Indian cooking,” writes Molly Stevens. “The ‘oven’ is heated by a layer of hot coals on the bottom of the pot and skewers of poultry or meat are then suspended above the coals to roast. The combination of the very hot dry air and the heated clay gives the foods cooked in a tandoor a distinctive earthy character. Even without a tandoor at home, you can come deliciously close to the real thing by starting with a traditional yogurt-based tandoori marinade, roasting at a high temperature, and serving the chicken on a bed of charred onions with fresh cilantro and lime.”

Tandoori-Style Roasted Chicken Legs
Yield: 6 servings
2 1/2 pounds bone-in, preferably skinless, chicken drumsticks, thighs, or a combination of both
Marinade:
1/2 cup plain yogurt, whole milk or low-fat
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger (from a 1- to 1 1/2-inch piece)
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted and ground
1 teaspoon garam masala, see cook’s notes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon paprika, sweet or hot
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
Roasting and serving:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, divided use
1 large white onion (about 12 ounces)
1 tablespoon peanut oil or canola oil
Kosher salt
1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves
1 lime, cut into wedges
Cook’s notes: Garam masala is a spice blend that can include cumin, coriander, cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper and cloves. It is now available in many supermarkets in the spice section.
1. Marinate chicken: Cut diagonal slashes, about 1/2-inch deep into fleshy parts of one side of the drumsticks (or thighs, if using). Make 3 to 4 slashes in each piece, about 1 inch apart. Place chicken in  zipper-style plastic bag. In small bowl, combine yogurt, garlic, ginger, lime juice, cumin, garam masala, salt, paprika and cayenne. Toss chicken with marinade, massaging the pieces so that the marinade gets into the slits and evenly covers all surfaces. Refrigerate sealed bag 4 to 6 hours.
2. Position oven rack to center and heat oven to 500 degrees (475 degrees convection). Let chicken sit at room temperature as oven heats (30 minutes).
3. Roasting: Arrange chicken pieces (with the side up that would have had the skin on it) 2 inches apart on broiler pan or on a wire rack set above a heavy duty rimmed baking sheet, leaving on as much of the marinade as possible. You can scrape any extra marinade onto chicken, as long as it doesn’t puddle up on the pan; it will cook down and make a sort of crust on the chicken as it roasts. Drizzle top of chicken with 1 tablespoon of melted butter. Roast, flipping the chicken after about 10 minutes and drizzling with another tablespoon of butter. (Start the onions at this point, see Step #4.) Continue roasting until tender and cooked through, 20 to 25 minutes total. The best doneness test is to cut into a pieces with a paring knife to see that it’s cooked throughout and the meat pulls away from the bone easily ( 180 to 190 degrees – not touching bone – on instant-read thermometer).
4. Charred onions: Cut onion in half lengthwise and trim ends, cutting the base at an angle to remove the root end. Slice each half crosswise into 1/4-inch half-moons. With your fingers, separate the half-moons into shreds. Heat a heavy 8- or 9-inch skillet (cast iron preferred, not nonstick) over high heat until very hot, about 2 minutes. Add oil and immediately swirl the pan to distribute oil and add onions. Do not stir until onions begin to color, then add a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally until charred in spots and slightly softened, about 8 minutes. Transfer to warm serving platter and cover with foil.
5. Place chicken on serving platter, nestling the pieces among the onions. Drizzle the remaining butter on top, sprinkle with cilantro, and arrange lime wedges around the edges. Cover with foil and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes.
Nutrition information (per serving): 350 calories, 40 percent of calories from fat, 15 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 85 mg cholesterol, 18 g carbohydrates, 21 g protein, 420 mg sodium, 2.5 g fiber
Source: adapted from “All About Roasting” by Molly Stevens (W.W. Norton, $35)

In my childhood home, we had a leg of lamb two Sundays a month. I loved those Sundays. This recipe studs the meat with little “bouquets” made of rosemary sprigs, slivered garlic and anchovies. Don’t be put off by the anchovies; they taste delicious, offering just-right saltiness. Plan ahead when making this version because it tastes best if it is seasoned 1 to 2 days in advance and stored in the refrigerator to let the flavors meld.

Roast Leg of Lamb with Anchovy, Rosemary, Garlic and Piment d’Espelette
Yield: 8 to 10
1 whole bone-in leg of lamb, 7 to 8 pounds, preferably with hip bone removed, with 1/8-inch layer of fat, see cook’s notes
5 large garlic cloves, peeled, cut into thin slivers
4 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry and cut into 20 little pieces
4 leafy sprigs rosemary, cut into twenty pieces
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons piment d’Espelette, see cook’s notes
1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 cup dry white wine or dry vermouth
Cook’s notes: My local supermarket rarely carries legs of lamb. I guess it is because it is so darn expensive. Markets such as Whole Foods, Bristol Farms and Gelson’s have them. I tested the recipe using a smaller bone-in leg for this recipe, one that is severed at the knee, weighing only a little less than 4 pounds. I use 2/3 of the amount of garlic, anchovy, rosemary and salt, and reduced the roasting time by about 25 minutes (roasting it only 48 minutes after turning the oven temperature down). Yes, my guests will get smaller servings, but I make up for it by providing loads of vegetables.
Piment d’Espelette is a brick-red powder made from chilies from the town of Espelette in the Basque region of France. It is milder than cayenne; its light heat is nuanced with sweetness. It is available at Savory Spice Shop in Corona del Mar (928 Avocado Avenue), or from several sources online. If you prefer, substitute hot paprika (not smoked paprika).
1. Using the tip of a paring knife, make 20 small holes on all sides of lamb. Stuff each hole with a slicer of garlic, a bit of anchovy and a small sprig of rosemary, leaving the tips of the rosemary sticking out. (It may help to gather the seasonings into a little “bouquet” and use the point of the knife to tuck a “bouquet” into each hole.) Season surface with salt and piment d’Espelette. Set in a large baking dish and refrigerate, uncovered or loosely covered, for 1 to 2 days. Let lamb come to room temperature for about 2 hours before roasting.
2. Arrange oven rack in the lower third of oven and  heat to 450 degrees (425 degrees convection).
3. Roasting: Rub surface with olive oil. Place lamb with the rounder, meatier side up in roasting pan just large enough to accommodate it (it’s fine if the top of the shank rests on the edge of the roasting pan.) Roast 25 minutes and then pour wine over lamb. Lower temperature to 325 degrees (300 degrees convection). Roast until a meat thermometer inserted in the meatiest part of the leg reaches 120 to 125 degrees for rare, about 1 hour from the time you lowered the oven heat; or 130 to 135 degrees for medium rare, about 1 1/4 hours.
4. Remove lamb to carving board, preferably one with a trough, to rest for 20 to 35 minutes. Tilt roasting pan and spoon off as much of the clear fat as you can. Using a wooden spoon, scrape up the pan drippings (if they are too stuck to the pan to scrape up, add 1/4 cup water to dissolve them). Set aside the pan drippings to drizzle over the carved lamb. Carve and serve drizzled with the pan drippings, or layer the slices in the roasting pan so they soak up the pan juices and serve family style (I really like this soak-in-the-pan approach), from the roasting pan.
Nutritional Information ( per serving) : 410 calories, 53 percent of calories from fat, 24 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 98 mg cholesterol, 15 g carbohydrates, 33 g protein, 400 mg sodium, 1.9 g fiber
Source: adapted from “All About Roasting” by Molly Stevens (W.W. Norton, $35)

I had to include my super-fast technique for roasting tri-tip. It’s a foolproof technique that gets the delicious job done without much time or trouble. The tri-tip or triangle tip roast is a small muscle off the bottom sirloin. It is a fairly tender cut that contains marbling and has a rich flavor. I never measure the mustard; I just slather it on with a silicone spatula to make a coating that is about 3/8-inch thick; make sure not to contaminate the mustard in the jar. Spoon it into a dish before spreading it on the meat.

Cathy’s Fast Tri-Tip Roast
Yield: 6 servings
1 tri-tip roast
1/3 cup Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons herbes de Provence
Cook’s notes: The tri-tip or triangle tip roast is a small muscle off the bottom sirloin. It is a fairly tender cut that contains marbling and has a rich flavor. Included in the topping for flavor is herbes de Provence, a combination of herbs found in southern France (marjoram, oregano, thyme, and summer savory is the basic idea). Many gourmet shops carry it, as well as some supermarkets, but if you can’t find it, substitute “Italian herbs,” a prepared blend found in most supermarkets.
1. Position oven rack to middle of oven and preheat oven to 450 degrees (preheating is very important for the success of this technique). Trim excess fat from roast. Coat both sides generously with mustard and season with herbes de Provence. Place in a shallow roasting pan and roast in preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes for medium rare. (Meat should register 130 to 135 degrees on a meat thermometer when inserted at thickest point.)
2. Remove from oven to cutting surface and allow to rest 10 minutes before slicing. Slice thinly on the diagonal.
Nutrition information (per serving): 380 calories, 54 percent of calories from fat, 23 g fat,  9 g saturated fat, 75 mg cholesterol,  4 g carbohydrates, 41 g protein,  344 mg sodium, 1.9 g fiber

cathythomascooks.com

Perciatelli or spaghetti? I vote for perciatelli. It’s thicker than spaghetti, and the stands are hollow.

(Perciatelli, above, spaghetti below.)

A close cousin of bucatini, I love the texture and flavor that this pasta brings. Sauce seeps into the hollow portion of the pasta.

Long tubes filled with yum-oh-lah.  Delicious.

Especially when I team it with my mother’s 1955-style meaty sauce teeming with loads of chopped celery and fresh mushrooms, weighted down with more than a pound of ground meat. (Mom used beef, I use turkey.)

Italiano? Not so much. But her more-meat-than-pasta Americanized sauce is irresistible.

The dog cries pathetically as we slurp it up. Dogs have pleasure meters; they know when their people are treasuring a treat.
Authentic four-hour Bolognese sauce doesn’t transition well into my schedule on most days.

Make mom’s sauce, it’s much quicker to prepare. Open the perciatelli (I buy it at Albertson’s).   Lock up the dog.

Here’s the way Mom made it in my childhood home in Van Nuys, California.

Perciatelli al Van Nuys
Yield: 4-5 servings
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/4 cups diced celery
1 large onion, chopped
8 ounces sliced fresh mushrooms
Optional: 1 medium carrot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 to 1 1/4 pounds ground beef OR ground turkey
1 (25- to 28-ounce) jar prepared pasta sauce, spicy preferred
Water
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme OR 2 teaspoons dried “Italian blend” herbs
Salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley
Optional: Pinch dried red pepper flakes
8 ounces perciatelli, cooked al dente according to package directions, drained; see cook’s notes
For passing: Freshly grated
Parmesan cheese
Cook’s notes: If desired, increase amount of pasta to 12 to 16 ounces. It will increase serving size and folks who like lots of pasta will approve.
1. In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat oil on medium-high heat. (I like to use a deep 8-quart pot because it’s deep enough to prevent tomato sauce from splattering on stovetop.) Add celery and onion; cook until softened, about 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add mushrooms, carrot (if using) and garlic; cook 3-4 minutes or until any liquid released from vegetables has evaporated, stirring occasionally. Add beef or turkey. Cook, breaking up meat with spatula, until meat is cooked through, about 5-7 minutes. Drain fat if necessary.
2. Add sauce and stir to combine. Fill empty sauce jar 1/3 full with water; screw on lid and shake to incorporate any remaining sauce into water. Stir now-red water mixture into sauce. Add herbs. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Reduce heat to medium-low. Gently simmer 20 minutes.
3. Add parsley to sauce. Stir and taste again. If it tastes bland, add a small pinch of dried red pepper flakes and adjust salt and/or pepper. Toss in drained, cooked perciatelli. Serve with Parmesan cheese.
Nutritional information (per serving using total of 8 ounces pasta): Calories 200 (20 percent from fat); fat 3 g (sat 2.3 g); protein 18.6 g; carbohydrates 39 g; fiber 1.2 g; cholesterol 40 g; sodium 300 mg; calcium 34 mg.

Source: Harriett Young’s 1955 kitchen, in the then “country-in-the-suburbs” of Van Nuys, California

cathythomascooks.com

Moist, chewy, luscious …. date bars are a little bit of heaven. Really.

I know I’m sentimental. The day Condé Nast scrapped Gourmet magazine, I felt like a friend had died. The 68-year-old publication had been a part of my monthly routine for decades. Reading it opened my view of global cuisine, especially in the early years of my career.

Several months after the magazine stopped its monthly print publication in the fall of 2009, “The Gourmet Cookie Book: The Single Best Recipe from Each Year 1941-2009” landed on my desk.

Sixty-eight years of Gourmet cookie history were captured in its pages, a best cookie selected each year of the magazine’s existence.

I embraced it and found that it was fun to bake cookies for friends and family chosen from the year of their birth. And that strategy seems appropriate for Valentine’s Day, a day that honors love and sweetness.

So, for my Valentine husband Phil, a 1945 Date Bar, a postwar bar cookie that tastes like it came out of an old-fashioned grandma’s farmhouse kitchen. Walnuts, graham cracker crumbs and chopped dates are the backbone of these simple treats. Moist and chewy, each nutty square is pleasantly sweet, an attribute primarily contributed by chopped dates. But brown sugar tags along, too, perhaps a 1945 tribute to the upcoming end of wartime sugar rationing.

For my daughter Alexis, a Long Beach high school teacher, 1975 Portuguese Almond Bolas, almond cookies published the year that food processors were first introduced to America.

I remember buying a Cuisinart that year. I still have it. It’s sturdy, made with metal not plastic. A real beauty.

I like to add a 2012 touch to these ’75 cookies, sprinkling a smidgen of fleur de sel (fancy sea salt) atop each before they go into the oven. I think it gives the nutty little cookies the spark they need.

And you may notice that I used unblanched almonds atop my cookies (Gourmet called for blanched almonds); I always have unblanched almonds on hand, and it was a shortcut that didn’t sacrifice flavor.

1975 Almond Bolas
Yield: about 4 dozen cookies
3 cups ground blanched almonds, see cook’s notes
1 1/2 cups dry breadcrumbs, see cook’s notes
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
3 egg whites (reserve yolks), see cook’s notes
1 1/2 teaspoons almond extract
3 egg yolks and 1 whole egg, see cook’s notes
About 4 dozen whole, lightly toasted blanched whole almonds or lightly toasted raw unblanched whole almonds
Optional: sea salt or fleur de sel
Cook’s notes: For ground almonds, I bought 1 pound (two 8-ounce packages) of blanched slivered almonds at Trader Joe’s, then ground them in batches in my food processor. It yielded a little more than 3 cups, but silly me, I threw it all in the cookie mixture. If you are using store-bought plain breadcrumb (not Panko), buy a new package for this recipe because they tend to go stale easily. I found that my dough was too dry to roll into spheres (Step #3), so I added 2 extra egg whites (unbeaten) and used the paddle attachment on my stand mixer to mix up the dough. It worked beautifully. In the book they used whole blanched almonds to crown each cookie. I always have raw whole unblanched almonds in my kitchen, so I used those. I think the cookies need a little salt, so I sprinkled a little fleur de sel on them before they went into the oven.
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line baking sheets with parchment paper. In large bowl, combine 3 cups ground blanched almonds, breadcrumbs and sugar.
2. Beat egg whites in large bowl of electric mixer on high speed until they are stiff and glossy. Add extract and mix on medium speed 10 seconds, or just enough time to combine. Fold egg whites into nut mixture.
3. Form tablespoons of the dough into balls and place the balls on prepared sheets, placing them 2 inches apart. In a small bowl beat together with a fork the yolks and 1 whole egg. Pressing your thumb into each cook, make an indentation in the center (it helps to hold the cookie together if you use the opposite hand to hold the opposite side of the cookie). Fill each indentation with beaten egg mixture (a scant 1/2 teaspoon for each cookie). Place a whole almond in the center of each. Bake in preheated oven for about 15 to 16 minutes (or until they are golden and nicely browned on the bottom). Transfer to rack to cool.
Nutrition information (per serving): 140 calories, 51 percent of calories from fat, 8 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 12 g carbohydrates, 7 g protein, 70 mg sodium, 1.7 g fiber
Source: adapted from “The Gourmet Cookie Book: The Single Best Recipe From Each Year 1941-2009” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $18)

1945 Date Bars
Yield: 36 bars
Butter for greasing pan
1 1/4 cups fine graham cracker crumbs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 3/4 cups chopped dates, see cook’s notes
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
3 eggs
1 cup light brown sugar
Garnish: powdered sugar
Cook’s notes: I used an eight-ounce bag of chopped dates (Sunsweet).
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease a 9-inch square baking pan with butter. Line pan with two crisscrossed sheets of aluminum foil, allowing a 1- to 2-inch margin of foil to come over the top edge of the pan; butter foil. Set aside.
2. In a large bowl, place graham cracker crumbs, salt and baking powder; stir to combine. Add dates and walnuts; stir to combine.
3. In a separate bowl or large bowl of an electric mixer, beat eggs well (use the flat paddle attachment on mixer if using). Add brown sugar, 1/3 cup at a time, stirring or beating between additions to combine. Add graham cracker mixture to egg mixture and mix or beat to combine. Place in prepared pan. Bake in preheated oven for 25 to 35 minutes. Allow to rest 10 minutes in pan set on cooling rack. Using potholders if the pan and foil are still too hot to handle, pull foil from pan and set bars still in foil on cooling rack. Allow to cool 10 minutes. Invert on cutting board and peel away foil. Make 36 squares by cutting 6 rows crosswise and lengthwise. Dust with powdered sugar; place powdered sugar in a sieve and shake over squares.
Nutrition information (per serving): 170 calories, 59 percent of calories from fat, 11 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 79 mg cholesterol, 18 g carbohydrates, 5 g protein, 89 mg sodium, 1.4 g fiber
Source: adapted from “The Gourmet Cookie Book: The Single Best Recipe From Each Year 1941-2009” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $18)

   cathythomascooks.com

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THE RANCH RESTAURANT & SALOON  opened in Anaheim a few weeks ago (on the ground floor of the six-story Extron Electronics building).

The stunning restaurant feels intimate, with elegant lighting and remarkable acoustics. And the food and drink? Irresistible.

DRINK IT: Selections from the 14,000 bottle wine cellar (assembled by wine guru, Master Sommelier Michael Jordan) pleased my Pinot-loving palate.

Also I happily sipped a Sagebrush Martini:  Hangar One Mandarin Blossom Vodka muddled with fresh sage leaves, plus fresh lemon juice, splash of fresh orange juice and a hint of agave nectar. Not too sweet, really nice.

HAND CRAFTED SWEET POTATO GNOCCHI: Order it for my last supper? Yup, this dish is so good I would die happily with it on my lips. The orange-hued gnocchi team with braised Petaluma rabbit, maitake mushrooms and San Manzano tomato sugo.

Executive Chef Michael Rossi creates these incredible gnocchi with dark fleshed sweet potatoes, Yukon Gold potatoes, egg yolks, Parmigiano-Reggiano, AP flour  and kosher salt.  He learned how to make them while working for a year in Italy (1998) from Chef Bruno Barbieri.

COLORADO GRASS-FED LAMB: Can you see how thick and juicy this baby is?

There are 8 bones on a rack of lamb. Chef Rossi cuts the generous chops so that 3 bones are eliminated, leaving 5 extra-large, equally-sized thick chops.

Marinated in roasted garlic puree, Dijon mustard, fresh thyme and toasted pecans, the succulent cooked-to-perfection meat is served with pecan spatzle and sweet potatoes. Yum.

(Bring your dancing boots if you’d like to do some Texas two-steppin’ next door.)

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THE COCOA LOUNGE, ISLAND HOTEL, NEWPORT BEACH

BACK BY POPULAR DEMAND: Through March 3, from 6 to 10 p.m. (closed Sundays & Mondays) the Palm Terrace’s Cocoa Lounge Dessert Buffet will be serving up chocolate decadence galore. It’s an all-you-can-eat chocolate extravaganza.

Executive Pastry Chef Michael Owens offers scrumptious creations that include Banana Chocolate Mousse Cake, White Chocolate Strawberry Shortcake, Triple Chocolate Cupcakes, Double Chocolate Fudge S’mores, Manjari Obsession in Chocolate Cups, plus lollipops, peanut caramels, port chocolates and coconut almond bars, and much more – served among displays of chocolate statues and chocolate velour.

Price: $24 per person, tax and gratuities not included.

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TRADITION BY PASCAL, CLOSING FEBRUARY 15

(Pascal’s dishes will  live on at his Epiceries (Newport Beach and Santa Ana), Cafe Jardin at Sherman Gardens (Corona del Mar), and Brasserie Pascal (Fashion Island)

I’ve celebrated so many important milestones at Pascal’s. Birthdays ending in zeros and my daughters’ school graduations. Plus those too-darn-fun Bastille Day galas.

Pascal has trained many of OC’s finest chefs in this restaurant’s kitchen.  I stopped by for one last meal. ‘Got teary over some of the stories I’ve written about Pascal that hang on the outside wall of that illustrious kitchen.

Dishes that are old friends …

PASCAL’S SALADE MAISON: Green heaven = butter lettuce + tasty croutons + poached egg + warm lardons + perky vinaigrette.

PASCAL’S BRAISED RABBIT WITH MUSTARD SAUCE AND ROASTED POTATOES: A wrascally wabbit, indeed. A just-right amount of creamy sauce naps the lean, tender rabbit.

Oh how I love the warm cheesecake souffle. Here’s the recipe:

PASCAL’S CHEESECAKE SOUFFLE
Yield: 9 servings
1 1/2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar, divided use
Peel of 1/2 orange (zest), finely minced or grated, colored part only
9 eggs, separated, divided use
Juice of 1 1/2 lemons
Garnish: vanilla ice cream
Garnish: raspberry coulis (sauce); see cook’s notes
Garnish: powdered sugar
Cook’s notes: To make raspberry coulis, place 2 (10-ounce) packages frozen raspberries in syrup (thawed) in food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until pureed. Strain through a sieve; discard seeds. Place puree in a small saucepan. In a small bowl combine 1 teaspoon cornstarch and 2 tablespoons water. Bring puree to a simmer over medium heat; stir in cornstarch mixture and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Bring to a boil; boil 1 minute, stirring constantly. Cool. You will have 2 1/2 cups; you will need about 1 cup for this recipe. Leftover sauce can be stored, well-sealed, in the refrigerator up to 1 week. Use it over ice cream, pound cake or pudding.
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
2. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, combine cream cheese, powdered sugar and 1/2 cup granulated sugar. On medium speed, beat until smooth. Add orange zest and beat on medium until blended. Add egg yolks 3 at a time, beating until blended between additions. Add lemon juice and beat on medium speed 5 minutes.
3. In a separate large bowl of an electric mixer, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Add remaining 3/4 cups of sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating about 30 seconds between additions. Beat until stiff. Fold into cream cheese mixture with a large, rubber spatula.
4. Pour into 9 oven-proof soup bowls (8 to 9 inches in diameter). Mixture will be about 1-1 1/2 inches deep. Bake in preheated oven 15 minutes. Serve souffles warm but don’t worry if they deflate a little. If you need to reheat them, bake 4-6 minutes at 425 degrees. Presentation: Place one scoop of vanilla ice cream in the center of the warm cheesecake souffle. Drizzle with raspberry coulis. Place powdered sugar in a small, fine sieve. Shake over the tops of the desserts to dust lightly with powdered sugar. Add fresh berries if you like.
Source: Pascal Olhats

                                                         cathythomascooks.com

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Restaurateur Tim Aspel has a knack for knowing what guests want. His latest venture, Spike’s Fish House with locations in Laguna Niguel and Rancho Santa Margarita, offers dishes that showcase delectable grilled fish.

From sliders and tacos, to bowls, wraps and fish plates, his dishes build vibrant flavors while keeping the focus on the delicious flavor of fresh seafood.

Watch Tim prepare his easy fish lettuce wraps and see his trick for separating the leaves.  Here’s how to make the “less than 150 calories for $1.50″ treat.

The fish has a clean fresh taste with plenty of crunch from the light breadcrumb coating.

The generous Iceberg lettuce cup is loaded with crisp tilapia, finely shredded cabbage, pico de gallo (diced tomato, onion, cilantro and cucumber) and Spike’s Sauce.

The sauce is a mixture of plain, low-fat Greek-style yogurt, smoked paprika, minced garlic, lemon juice and a little mayonnaise.

Spike’s Tilapia Panko-Style Lettuce Wraps
Yield: 3 lettuce wraps
1 large egg white
3/4 cup panko breadcrumbs, see cook’s notes
6- to 7-ounce tilapia fillet
1 tablespoon canola oil
3 lettuce cups, see cook’s notes
2/3 cup finely shredded red and green cabbage
3 tablespoons Spike Sauce (recipe included)
3 to 4 tablespoons Pico de Gallo, see cook’s notes
Garnish: lime wedges for optional juicing
1. Place egg white and panko in separate shallow bowls or pie plates. Dip both sides of fish in egg white, then panko. Heat oil on medium heat in nonstick skillet that is large enough to accommodate the fish. Cook fish on both sides, cooking long enough to nicely brown the crumbs and cook the interior. Fish should be opaque throughout. Cut fish into 3 portions. Cut each portion into 2 pieces.
2. Add 2 pieces of fish to a lettuce cup. Top with 2 tablespoons Spike’s sauce, some shredded cabbage, and a generous tablespoon of Pico de Gallo. Repeat to make 2 more lettuce wraps. Serve with lime wedges on the side.
Cook’s notes: Japanese-style breadcrumbs, known as panko, are coarser than traditional prepared dry breadcrumbs. They create a deliciously crunchy crust. Supermarkets often stock them both in the Asian specialty section and the breadcrumb section. The 3/4 cup measurement is probably more than you will use, but when breading it is helpful to have a generous amount to work with.
Easiest way to make lettuce cups: Cut off the bottom 1/3 of Iceberg lettuce, then hold the cut side of the remaining portion under running water. The surge of the water will help separate the leaves. Drain “cups” unside-down on paper towels.
To make Pico de Gallo, combine 1 cup diced Roma tomatoes, 1/4 cup peeled, diced hot house cucumber, 1/4 cup diced yellow onion, 1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro, 1 small clove garlic (minced), and 1/2 seeded and minced fresh jalapeno chili, plus salt and pepper to taste.

Spike’s Sauce
1 cup low-fat plain Greek-style yogurt
1/3 cup mayonnaise
Smoked paprika, to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 large garlic clove, minced
Juice from grilled lemon, to taste, see cook’s notes
Cook’s notes: To grill lemon, heat barbecue grill or grill pan on stovetop. Cut lemon in half and place on heated grill until dark grill marks form. When cool enough to handle, squeeze juice.
1. Combine all ingredients in a small bowl.
Source: Tim Aspel, Spike’s Fish House, Laguna Niguel and Rancho Santa Margarita

cathythomascooks.com

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LUCCA, Irvine, revealed their BAR SNACK MENU – served 4 to 6 PM.

I ate every bite.

Lucca’s cured and braised crispy pork belly, sits atop corn kernel-mascarpone polenta, garnished with dried apricot chutney ($7).  A glorious balance of vibrant flavors and texture contrasts.

The inside scoop from executive chef-owner Cathy Pavlos: “The Pork Belly is a 4 step process: first we toast and grind all of the spices and herbs, combine them with kosher salt, tickle the belly, and crust it in this herb/spice/salt mixture; let it sit for 2 days. Second, shake it out, clean it off and braise it with mirepoix and chicken stock at 325 for 3 hours. Third,  pull it outta the braise, slap it on a sheet pan and roast it for an hour, all the time basting it with the pan juices. Fourth, we crisp the skin.”

OK, I love blue-veined cheeses and this was a bonanza. Lucca’s blue cheese tartlett ($4.50) with Cippoline onions in agrodolce (the Italian version of sweet-sour sauce) and a Port wine reduction. I thought nothing could top their Gongonzola Cheesecake from a few years back, but this has it bested.

Gorgonzola piccante (inside with balsamic glazed caramelized onions) and Gorgonzola dolce (on top and bruled).  Two onions, too–caramelized balsamic white onions inside, cippoline in agrodolce (red wine and red wine vinegar) on the side

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A luscious lunch at Haven Gastropub, Old Towne Orange.

Chef de Cuisine, Matthew Roman with Haven’s Goose Pastrami Sandwich!

Coleslaw, Russian dressing, house-made coarse-grain mustard, oh-so-perfect artisan rye bread, with pickled vegetables and potato chips (I ordered mine with a frisee salad instead of the potato chips, so that I could have two desserts).

Pastry Chef ~ Santanna Salas’ Butterscotch Pots de Creme

Oh, I think Santanna is such a masterful pastry chef. She pairs tried-and-true themes with such provacative twists.

Here she teamed super-luscious butterscotch pots de creme with chunks of pumpkin spice cake, candied squash, and crisp pumpkin seeds.

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Dinner at 370 Common, Laguna Beach. Arrived at 6:30 Saturday night and the place was rockin’.

OK, now I have a new favorite soup. It doesn’t look too great in the photo, because I ate most of it before I took the shot! Bad Cathy, bad bad Cathy.

It’s a Apple-Rutabaga Soup that executive chef-owner Ryan Adams whipped up as the soup of the day. Granny Smith apples and rutabagas, in a 30:70 ratio, augmented a traditional mirepoix (carrots, onions, celery, herbs).  A hearty celery leaf provided an aromatic garnish for the warm puree.

Ryan’s classic “Grandma B’s Chocolate Cake accompanied with rich vanilla bean ice cream and love.” He uses his grandmother’s recipe for “broiler cake” and it is a comfort-food lover’s dream come true.

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Super Bowl Sunday is a day of indulgence. Food is the focal point for many party-goers, the game only an amusing backdrop.

Trough-style is the only way to go. Put it out. Guests scoop or ladle up the goods. Easy peasy.

For many, chili has become a traditional Super Bowl entree. Not only is it delectable, it can easily be made a day in advance, tucked into the refrigerator and the kitchen cleaned up long before guests arrive. For serving, I reheat it and slip it into a slow cooker on low setting (or if I have enough time, I simply reheat in the slow cooker – but remember that cold chili can take well over an hour to heat).

Next to the pot I put a stack of bowls, a ladle and all the optional toppings: diced avocado, minced cilantro, finely diced red onion, crumbled tortilla chips, bottles of hot sauce, and sour cream.

There’s been a lot of brouhaha about “real” chili – chili without beans. But for many, we’ve tired of the debate because “with beans” is the chili of our childhoods – a comfort food served with a tall stack of saltines. The recipe that I have included is that bean-in style.

As for the other scrumptious bits and pieces for the party, I’ve included two hot dips and a luscious truffle-salt popcorn.

Full fat or fat-reduced mayonnaise, it’s up to you. Both works beautifully in this hot crab dip, but of course, the full-fat version tastes richer. If the breadcrumb topping doesn’t brown to your liking, turn on the broiler to toast it. Turn on the oven light and watch it. It probably will take about a minute; walk away and it might turn to cinders.

Baked Crab Dip
Yield: about 2 cups
6 ounces crabmeat, well drained, patted dry with paper towel
1/2 cup finely diced red bell pepper
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/4 cup thinly sliced green onions, including dark green stalks
1/2 cup mayonnaise or reduced-fat mayonnaise
4 ounces whipped cream cheese
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon hot sauce, such as Tabasco, see cook’s notes
1/4 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest, colored portion of peel
For serving: pita chips, sturdy crackers, crostini
Cook’s notes: A half teaspoon of hot sauce gives this dish just a whisper of spicy hotness. For a spicier mix increase the hot sauce to 1 teaspoon. Why no salt? I assume that the dippers are salted. If using raw vegetables as scoopers, add a little salt and plenty of freshly ground pepper along with the mayonnaise in Step #1. I love the flavor of licorice, so wedges of fresh fennel bulb would be my favorite vegetable dipper.
1. Place the crabmeat in a medium bowl and flake with your fingers. Stir in the bell pepper, parsley and green onions. Using a rubber spatula, gently stir in the mayonnaise, cream cheese, lemon juice, and hot sauce. Transfer to shallow, 1-quart baking dish. In a small bowl, combine the panko and lemon zest.
2. Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Just before baking, sprinkle the panko mixture on top and bake until the panko is toasty brown and the dip is bubbling at the edges, about 12 minutes. Serve hot with pita chips, crackers or crostini.

Do-Ahead: The dip, without the panko topping, can be prepared, covered, and refrigerated up to 1 day in advance. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before baking. The topping can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead and sprinkled on just before baking.
Nutrition information (per 1 tablespoon serving made with full-fat mayonnaise): 180 calories, 65 percent of calories from fat, 13 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 20 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 1 g protein, 230 mg sodium, 0 g fiber Source: adapted from “Skinny Dips” by Diane Morgan (Chronicle, $18.95)

Chili is a one-pot meal that is perfect for casual entertaining. Set out an assortment of optional toppings and guests can augment their chili to suit individual taste. Provide bowls of diced ripe avocado, minced cilantro, finely diced red onion, crumbled tortilla chips, and sour cream. Also provide an assortment of bottled hot sauces for fire-loving diners.

Party Chili
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium sweet yellow onions, chopped
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, chopped
1 large stalk celery, trimmed, chopped
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 1/2 pounds ground beef or ground turkey, see meatless tip
2 (14 1/2 ounces each) cans whole tomatoes with juice
2 (15 ounces each) kidney beans, drained
1 (8 ounce) can tomato sauce
2 tablespoons chili powder
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Cayenne pepper to taste
Optional toppings: diced avocado, minced cilantro, finely diced red onion, crumbled tortilla chips, bottled hot sauce, sour cream
Cook’s notes: Season the chili to suit your taste. You may wish to increase the amount of chili powder or add a small pinch of dried red chili powder.
1. Heat olive oil in 5-quart pan or Dutch oven on medium-high heat. Add onions, bell peppers, celery and garlic; cook until onions soften, stirring frequently and lowering heat if needed to prevent onion from browning. Add beef or turkey; cook, stirring frequently, until meat browns and is cooked through.
2. Add remaining ingredients and bring to boil on high heat. Decrease heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
3. Ladle into bowls. Provide toppings for optional garnishes.
Meatless tip: Omit meat. Instead add 1 (15-ounce) can drained and rinsed black beans along with kidney beans in Step #2.
Nutritional information (per serving without optional topping): 200 calories, 35 percent of calories from fat, 6 g fat, 2.5 g saturated fat, 35 mg cholesterol, 21 g carbohydrates, 5 g protein, 570 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
Source: “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce” by Cathy Thomas (Wiley, $29.95)

The inspiration for this casual-by-delicious dip came from Rick Bayless, the Chicago based restaurateur-cookbook-author that won Top Chef Masters with his 27-ingredient mole; only five ingredients here, plus the tortilla chips for dipping. This dish is delicious served alongside a big bowl of guacamole. And it sings out for a cold bottle of beer.

Salsa-Baked Goat Cheese
Yield: 18 (two-scoop) servings
1/4 cup coarsely chopped walnuts or pecans, or whole pine nuts
1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, room temperature
1 (5.5-ounce) log goat cheese with herbs and garlic
1 cup salsa, see cook’s notes
Garnish: 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
For serving: sturdy tortilla chips
Cook’s notes: If the salsa is chunky, strain it and pulse it in the food processor so the pieces won’t be too big and the salsa will have a thicker base. I use a medium or mild salsa unless I know that all my guests are fond of spicy heat. If you like, put out a bottle or two of hot sauce as an optional topping.
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position: preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast in oven until lightly browned, about 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to bowl and allow to cool for 5 minutes.
2. Add cheeses to bowl and combine thoroughly stirring and mashing with a sturdy spoon. Scoop cheese mixture into middle of a 9-inch pie pan; pat into a 5-1/2-inch disk. Spoon a little salsa over the top and pour the rest around the cheese.
3. Bake until heated through, 13 to 16 minutes. Sprinkle with cilantro and serve as a dip with tortilla chips.
Do-ahead: Prepare the cheese mixture and pat into a disk in pie plate. Cover and refrigerate up to 36 hours ahead. Remove from refrigerator and allow to sit at room temperature for 25 to 30 minutes before adding salsa and baking.
Nutritional information (per serving without chips): 210 calories, 53 percent of calories from fat, 12 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 58 mg cholesterol, 9 g carbohydrates, 18 g protein, 430 mg sodium, 0.5 g Source: “The Best American Recipes 2004” by Fran McCullough and Molly Stevens (Houghton Mifflin, $26)

I heard Oprah Winfrey talk about this popcorn on the Dr. Oz TV show. The popcorn is topped with a smidgen of fresh lemon juice to help the truffle salt stick. Truffle salt is available at gourmet shops.

I bought the salt at Napa Style at South Coast Plaza (Home Store Wing).

Oprah’s Truffle Salt Popcorn
Yield: about 15 cups
1/2 cup popcorn (uncooked kernels)
3 tablespoons canola oil
Fresh lemon juice, Meyer lemon juice preferred
Truffle salt, to taste
1. Place corn and oil in heavy-bottomed 6-quart pan (Dutch oven). Place on medium heat and cover with a lid, setting the lid slightly ajar to allow steam to escape. When popping slows, remove from heat.
2. Transfer popcorn into two large bowls. Sprinkle with a little lemon juice, about 2 teaspoons per bowl; toss. Season to taste with truffle salt; toss. Best served immediately, but is still delicious served within 4 hours of popping.
Nutritional information (per 1/2 cup serving): 34 calories, 32 percent of calories from fat, 2.5 g fat, 0.5 g saturated fat, 3 mg cholesterol, 4 g carbohydrates, 1 g protein, 370 mg sodium, 0.2 g fiber Source: adapted from Oprah Winfrey

Photographer Nick Koon snaps Super Bowl shots on sod placed atop my family room floor.

My westie Bonnie was puzzled, but a little of that truffle popcorn settled her nerves.

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Great Somm: Yes, the first time I saw Ian Cauble he was running across his living room clad only in underpants.

OK, he was 3 at the time; I’d come to his parents’ Huntington Beach home to pick up his sister Amber for a play-date with my daughter.

He is shown above eating sushi with his parents at a Huntington Beach sushi bar. No, he didn’t eat the turtle.

Ian is now 31, and I am quite proud to say that  I knew him back when he didn’t know Pinot Noir from Pablum. Ian is the award-winning sommelier at The Ritz Carlton, Half Moon Bay.

And he has been kickin’ the heck out of the competition.

After an intense competition in Athens, Greece, the Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, the world’s oldest gastronomic society based in Paris, France, awarded Ian First Place in its annual Young Sommelier Competition.

It was a heated contest, with young wine professionals representing nine countries, including the UK, Spain, Denmark, South Africa, Australia, Finland, and Russia. After 7 grueling hours, he prevailed with top honors.

He also has won the USA Champion TOP|SOMM award from the Guild of Sommeliers.

So proud of him. Yet when it came to the almost-impossible-to-pass Master Sommelier Diploma Examination, he came very close, but …. less than 200 worldwide have ever passed it, and he isn’t one of them  … yet.

Watch this trailer for the documentary that details Ian’s exam prep and trials (SOMM Documentary Trailer 1 from Forgotten Man Films on Vimeo)

Michael Jordan, MS, VP of Food & Beverage at THE RANCH, Anaheim, is the most respected wine educator in Orange County (and perhaps the entire USA). Several years ago he passed the exam in London and earned the title of Master Sommelier.

Part of the exam involves blind tastings in which several wines must be identified by grape varietal, vintage and country (or region or appellation). With the thousands of wines out there, it’s a mystery how anyone could accomplish such a feat.

Here’s what Jordan had to say about Ian:

It has been my great honor to get to know Ian Cauble as a friend and colleague. It’s just been an amazing experience to watch this man work so hard with determination rarely seen in any field toward his goal of passing the Master Sommelier Diploma Examination.

Ian has already achieved some of the greatest honors in the world of wine service highlighted by his great success in Greece.  I have seen Ian go through both moments of elation and great angst in his pursuit of this elusive and most difficult accreditation that in over 40 years – less than 200 people have passed – The Master Sommelier Examination.  If anyone can do it, it will be Ian.  His dedication, work ethic and relentless study are a shining beacon of desire for the achievement that many will point to as a role model for those that aspire to excellence in our industry.

I can’t wait to see Ian get that pin, the one that is gold and burgundy, and says Master Sommelier on it.  I am proud to know and work with a gentleman that is so dedicated to his craft. Cheers Ian!

Nice, very nice. I asked his dad, Dr. David Cauble, if he could remember Ian’s first childhood sip of wine?

I think it was Thanksgiving, he was maybe 9 or 10, and we opened a sparkling cider. He poured it into the glass and described the flavors. We were young hippie parents, not the kind of people that said alcohol was bad. We didn’t want them to go off to college and be the one holding their hair back at the toilet bowl.

Ah, the makings of greatness.

Big taste, few calories.

Five vegetables to add to your 2012 repertoire.

Could this be the end of popping vitamin supplements? Probably not, but many studies show that a balanced diet high in nutrient-rich produce is the best way to get vitamins and minerals, fiber and antioxidants.

How about this mâche salad? I like to think of trying new vegetables as an adventure. Heck, we know they are good for us, so why not make it fun? They offer so many flavors, for so few calories.  Bon Appetit.

Savoy Cabbage: This stunning cabbage has a ruffled surface crisscrossed with road-map white veining. Overcooked or cooked in too much liquid, it has an unappealing odor. The crispness turns soggy and the spicy-sweet taste turns bland. Cook it enough to make it just barely tender and it is delicious (try the quick-braise recipe that follows).

Look for heads that seem heavy for their size with crisp leaves that are free of discoloration or soft spots. Refrigerate unwashed and dry in plastic bag in crisper drawer up to 2 weeks.  Before using, remove the first layer of leaves (they may be tough, but many markets trim them off before they are displayed).

Wash exterior with cold water. To remove the core, cut into quarters from top to bottom, then cut away and discard the solid white core. If shredding, place flat side on cutting surface and cut crosswise into narrow shreds.

Tuscan Kale (also called dinosaur kale or lacinato kale):  Tender and flavorful, these heavily puckered leaves are such a deep green that in Italian it is called “cavolo nero,” which translates as black cabbage. I like the taste better than common curly-edged kale and it can be cooked more quickly.

Buy bunches that have smallish leaves, preferably those with stems no wider than 1/4 inch. The scent should be fresh and the leaves crisp, without wilting or discoloration. Rinse in tub of cold water, gently swishing the leaves around to remove any dirt or grit; repeat if necessary until water is clear. Shake to remove excess water. Wrap in clean kitchen towel or paper towels and place in partially closed plastic bag. Refrigerate in crisper drawer up to 3 days.

Mâche (also called lamb’s lettuce): These delicate, spoon-shaped lettuce leaves taste sweet. Honest, and nutty, too. The tender little leaves cluster around the roots in small loose heads.

Bright green and luscious, they haven’t made their way to my local supermarket yet, but Trader Joe’s sells them tucked into nifty cellophane bags. For storing at home, I find that refrigerated in the crisper drawer inside those cellophane bags, mâche will keep 5 or 6 days.

It’s usually eaten raw in salads, but served as a cooked dish, steam it just until barely tender, or toss it into soups during the last few minutes of cooking.

Watercress: The mellow peppery taste of these tender leaves offers just-right balance to a wide variety of dishes. I notice that the spiciness varies; sometimes it is subtle, sometimes strong. But I love the balance it brings to dishes, everything from sandwiches to salads, soups to appetizers. That is especially true when a sweet element it present, such as honey-spiked vinaigrette or a handful of raisins.

Look for bright green leaves without wilting and stems without discoloration. To store it, trim off and discard large lower stems and swirl leaves attached to thin stems in large tub of cold water. Shake off excess water and wrap in clean kitchen towel or paper towels and place in partially closed plastic bag. Refrigerate in crisper drawer. It is perishable, so use it within 2 days. Before use, most often I use a paring knife to cut thin stems into 2-inch long portions to make bite-sized pieces.

Cactus Leaves: Don’t turn your nose up at these fleshy paddles. Thorn-free and cooked, they have a green bean texture and taste, with a little green bell pepper and citrus thrown in to the flavor profile for extra pizzazz. Most supermarkets sell them prepped and packaged in sealed plastic bags. Some Latin American markets and farmers markets offer them whole, but with the thorns removed.

If for some reason you need to prep a whole, thorny leaf (oh, it’s been years since I’ve done this), here’s how: Wear gloves to protect hands and trim off edge around perimeter of leaf. Cut or scrape off thorns from both sides, or peel with a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler. Rinse thoroughly with cold water to remove sticky fluid and loose thorns. Use right away or pat dry, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate up to 2 days.

Simmering strips of cactus leaf creates a slimy substance, so grill or roast to lessen the slim factor. Roast strips in 375-degree oven on rimmed baking sheet for about 18 minutes or until limp and tender. Or to grill, brush whole leaf with canola oil. Sprinkle with coarse salt and grill over medium coals until limp, turning frequently (grilling times vary depending on size of leaf and degree of heat). OR, cut trimmed oiled and salted leaf into 3/4-inch wide strips and grill on grill rack or in grill basket, until grill marks form and strips are limp, about 5 minutes.

These dandy little open-faced sandwiches can make a light lunch, but my favorite way to enjoy them is as a dessert. A finale of fruit and cheese rounds out a meal so beautifully and in this case, sprigs of fresh watercress add their perky attitude, too. I like to use a rustic unsliced whole wheat loaf; I cut it into half-inch slices.

Grilled Gorgonzola, Pear, and Watercress Sandwiches
Yield: 4 open-faced sandwiches
1 ripe but slightly firm pear, such as Bartlett or Anjou
4 slices rustic whole wheat bread
1 cup watercress sprigs with the coarse stems discarded, about 1/2 bunch
1/4 pound chilled Gorgonzola cheese (or Maytag or Point Reyes), thinly sliced or crumbled
1. Arrange oven rack to 5 inches below broiler element; preheat broiler.
2. Remove stems from pear and cut in half lengthwise. Remove core with melon baller. Cut crosswise (from side to side) into thin slices.
3. Place bread slices in single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Place under broiler and turn on oven light. Broil until lightly browned. Keep an eye on them; will probably take less than 2 minutes. Remove sheet from oven and turn slices over. Divide watercress between toasts and cover with slightly overlapping pear slices. Place cheese on top. Broil until cheese melts, about 1 minute; keep an eye on them because they can easily burn. Provide diners with knives and forks.
Nutrition information (per serving): 250 calories, 35 percent of calories from fat, 9.7 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 25 mg cholesterol, 30.5 g carbohydrates, 9 g protein, 340 mg sodium, 2.0g fiber
Source: adapted from “The Gourmet Cookbook” edited by Ruth Reichl (Houghton Mifflin, $40)

Cactus leaf, nopalitos in Spanish, are best when they are about 8 inches long; smaller leaves don’t provide enough flesh and larger leaves are sometimes tough. Some purveyors cut the pieces smaller for packaging, about 1/4-inches wide; that is fine.
Shrimp and Cactus Salad
Yield: 8 servings
2 cups of 1/2-by 1-inch pieces barb-free raw cactus leaves
1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil or extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup thinly sliced red onion, see cook’s notes
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 Roma tomatoes, diced
3 radishes, trimmed, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup crumbled queso fresco or feta cheese
1 1/4 pounds small cooked, peeled and deveined shrimp
Garnish: corn tortilla chips
Cook’s notes: If red onion is strong, soak slices in ice water for 30 to 40 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towel.
1. Preheat grill. In a large nonreactive bowl (such as glass or ceramic) toss cactus leaf strips with 1 1/2 tablespoons oil. Do not wash bowl, but sit aside. Place mixture in grill basket or grill rack. Grill until slightly charred and softened, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.
2. Combine with the remaining ingredients with the cooled cactus in reserved large bowl. Cover and chill in refrigerator for 3 hours or until cold. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Serve cold garnished with tortilla chips.
Nutrition information (per serving): 290 calories, 46 percent of calories from fat, 15 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 27 g carbohydrates, 11 g protein, 620 mg sodium, 3 g fiber

One of my favorite ingredient combinations on the planet is bacon paired with greens and cider vinegar. I personally like to add a lot more than 1 tablespoon of vinegar, buts that’s me! Here the balance of smoke, salt and sour tastes makes the deep-hued Tuscan kale irresistible. I love the aroma too, when that fresh-tasting, tart cider vinegar meets the bacon-y greens.

Sautéed Tuscan Kale with Bacon and Vinegar
Yield: 4 side-dish servings
Salt
1 1/4 pounds Tuscan kale, or common curly-edge kale, stems and center ribs discarded or used in soup, leaves coarsely torn into bite-size pieces
1/4 pound bacon, nitrate-free preferred, about 4 slices, chopped
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon cider vinegar, or to taste
Salt, plus freshly ground pepper to taste
1. Bring a large saucepan or Dutch oven three-fourths full of salted water to a boil on high heat. Add kale and cook, uncovered, for 3 to 4 minutes or until wilted and tender; drain well.
2. In a large, deep skillet, cook bacon on medium heat, stirring until crisp, about 5 minutes. If bacon is super lean, you will probably need to add a little oil with it to get it going. Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of fat from skillet, leaving bacon behind. Add olive oil and well-drained kale to bacon. Increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, until heated through, about 2 minutes. Add vinegar and toss. Remove from heat and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Nutrition information (per serving): 170 calories, 47 percent of calories from fat, 9 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 60 mg cholesterol, 13 g carbohydrates, 4 g protein, 872 mg sodium, 4 g fiber
Butter tastes scrumptious in this recipe, but you may prefer to use soft tub margarine instead. Or try the technique using broth (see cook’s notes).

Quick-Cook Savoy Cabbage, With or Without Butter
Yield: 6 to 8 side-dish servings
One large head of Savoy cabbage, about 3/4 to 1 pound
3 tablespoons water
3 to 4 tablespoons butter or soft tub margarine, divided use, see cook’s notes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Cook’s notes: If you prefer, use 1 tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil to briefly stir-fry the cabbage then add 1/3 cup vegetable broth or chicken broth and 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves and cabbage. Bring to boil on high heat; cover and cook on medium heat, tossing occasionally, until wilted, about 5 minutes; do not overcook. Season with salt and pepper; sprinkle with 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley.
1. If cabbage has large, tough outer leaves, remove them. Cut cabbage in quarters from top to bottom. Remove core from each quarter and discard core. Cut each quarter crosswise into thin strips.
2. In a large, deep skillet bring water, 3 tablespoons butter or margarine and pinch of salt to a boil on high heat. Add shredded cabbage and toss. Cover and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper; toss. Add 1 tablespoon butter or margarine and toss. Serve.
Nutrition information (per serving, without butter): 36 calories, less than 2 percent of calories from fat, 0.5 g fat, 0.6 g saturated fat, 0.1 mg cholesterol, 7 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 59 mg sodium, 2.6 g fiber

Bless Trader Joe’s little heart; they sell cellophane bags filled with mâche. I love the tender leaves and use them in myriad ways. This salad looks glorious on a buffet table. Served on an elongated platter, a tangle of mâche salad sits in the middle, with red beets on one end and yellow on the other. The beets can be cooked and tossed with vinaigrette several hours in advance, making it a very practical dish for entertaining. I nabbed the recipe from my new cookbook that will be released this fall.

Mâche and Beet Salad Platter
Yield: 10 servings
8 medium-size red beets, with 1-inch stem attached
8 medium-size golden beets, with 1-inch stem attached
Zest and juice of 1 large lemon
Zest and juice of 1 lime
1 1/2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
5 cups mâche
1. Roast beets: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Wash beets. Enclose, still wet, in aluminum foil, 3 to a packet. Place packets on rimmed baking sheet.  Bake in preheated oven until fork tender, 30 to 60 minutes, depending on size. When cool enough to handle, slip off peel. Cut into 1/2-inch chunks. Place each color in separate bowls.
2. Prepare vinaigrette: In a bowl or measuring cup with a handle, whisk juices, zests, honey, mustard, salt and pepper. Add oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly. Pour 1/3 of vinaigrette over each of the two bowls of beets and gently toss.
3. Place mâche in bowl. Toss with remaining vinaigrette.
4. Taste beets and adjust seasoning if needed. On an elongated platter, either rectangular or oval, arrange red beets at one end and yellow beets at the opposite end, leaving a space in the middle. Place mâche in center. Serve.
Nutrition information (per serving): 270 calories, 33 percent of calories from fat, 10 g fat, 2.1 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 40 g carbohydrates, 5 g protein, 849 mg sodium, 3.5 g fiber

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