cathythomascooks.com

Yes, I have a luscious job. 

One example? A recent lunch at the beautiful Winery Restaurant (The District, Tustin).

My job before lunch? To shoot a video with Executive Chef Yvon Goetz and Register Grilling Contest Winner, Deron Richens.

Here’s the video.

And some action shots …

You know a shoot is going to be big-time fun when the chef starts the action by pouring a glass of wine.

Maybe just a sip before the camera starts rolling.

Chef is ready …

Then, we have an irresistible three-course lunch: Deron, Yvon, Wing Lam (Wahoo’s Fish Taco co-founder), Deron’s wife Lisa and PR goddess Mona Shah.

The Winery’s House Salad.

So good, it’s hard to resist ordering every time. The spinach and strawberry salad looked delicious, too, as did the mushroom soup.

Winery’s oh-so-fresh snapper on the plate with perfect partners: herbaceous tomatoes provided a welcome touch of acidity, and toothsome, seasoned-to-perfection quinoa.

Congrats to contest winner Deron Richens. He won the The Winery Restaurant lunch, a $250 gift certificate from The Meat House in Costa Mesa … and wait for it, wait for it … a copy of my cookbook, “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce.”

Now, my next job? Buy myself a fancy salt box like Chef Yvon’s.

Isn’t it a beauty? He says he got it from Napa Style.

            cathythomascooks.com

Big Bites of OC Eateries:

Slapfish, the oh-so-popular food truck has gone the brick-and-mortar route in Huntington Beach on Beach Blvd. (between Mother’s Market and Albertson’s). It’s “clean food” – fresh and flavorful. Everything from lobster quesadillas to fish tacos to clam chowder.

The Deck Plate is a straightforward option ($6.50). The fish of the day (here it’s John Dory) teams with beautifully seasoned sticky rice, grilled tomato and very tasty coleslaw that they call “virgin slaw” (love the way they respect the cabbage – really one of my favorite slaws – ‘need to get them to show me how they do it). Here the sides aren’t just some afterthought. They are delicious and well executed.

You can help yourself to sauces to pair with fish. Several tasty options.

Lobsticle®, a more playful option, is half of a South Atlantic lobster tail that is skewered, grilled and brushed with melted butter ($8.75)

Congrats to talented owners Andrew Gruel and Jethro Naude.

SlapFish is at 19696 Beach Blvd., near Adams. Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. seven days a week, but closed on Mondays during May. slapfishsocal.com or 714-963-3900.

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Tamarind of London’s – Lunch Now:

In addition to their dinner service, the Newport Coast restaurant Tamarind of London (tied to the Michelin-starred Tamarind restaurant in London) is now open for lunch Friday, Saturday and Sunday (11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.).

Lunch entrees include Thali plates, each featuring a sampling of traditional Indian dishes. Combinations include Seafood Prawn Masala and Kokum Fish Curry for $19; Kashmiri Lamb Curry and Butter Chicken for $18; and Vegetarian Paneer Methi Masala and Three Greens Saag for $17.

All Thali plates are served with the vegetable of the day, black lentils, rice, naan and raita.

I’m fond of the Quinoa and Avocado Salad with cilantro and mixed citrus ($11). Vibrant flavors, toothsome textures.

As for a cocktail, I love the Pimms O’Clock, a fruit-filled drink with Pimms No. 1, fresh strawberries, cucumber, oranges and fresh lemonade. (Shoot, wish I had a photo – guess I threw it down before I got an image.)

Tamarind’s chef, Shachi Mehra, spent summers during her youth in India, travels that exposed her to a myriad of tastes. Prior to opening as executive chef at Tamarind, she cut her teeth working at one of my favorite (now-closed) NYC restaurants, Tabla. She also worked in the kitchens of the Bombay Club in Washington DC and Palo Alto’s Junnoon.

Tamarind of London is at the Crystal Cove Promenade at 7862 East Coast Highway in Newport Coast. Hours are Monday – Saturday 5 p.m. – 10:30 p.m. and Sunday 5 p.m.-9:30 p.m. Happy Hour from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.  Lunch Friday – Sunday.

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A rosy blush adorns one cheek. It graces the downy orange-gold skin, promising apricot lovers that, inside, the fruit is fragrant and flavorful.

At its tree-ripened best, the juicy flesh has the look of deep-pile velvet; the taste, enhanced by flowery perfume, is a perfect balance of sweet and tart.

Robert Schueller, the produce guru at Melissa’s, says that Monstercots (apricots that are twice the size of traditional ‘cots), are being harvested in California as of 2 days ago.  Most Monstercots go to the restaurant industry.

Not to worry. Glorious apricots will be in the marketplace any day. I say, bring ‘em on!

Apricot Custard Tart, oh my: Here’s my simplified version of pastry chef Emily Luchetti’s classic dessert. Fresh apricot wedges cook their way to paradise in an almond-topped mixture of sugar, cream and egg yolks (see recipe).

I substituted refrigerated store-bought crust, but purists are welcome to make it from scratch. Either way, the apricots are the star.

‘Cots ‘n’ fowl: By themselves, boned and skinned chicken breasts can taste rather bland. Add some quickly sauteed apricots and things can get interesting, especially if you include an easy wine reduction sauce with lime zest, chili and ginger (see recipe).

Think-twice rice pairs beautifully with the chicken: Prepare pilaf by heating 2-3 tablespoons butter (or a combination of butter and canola oil) in large saucepan on medium- high heat; add 1 cup raw long-grain rice and 1/4 cup diced red onion. Lightly brown, stirring frequently. Add 2 cups chicken broth or vegetable broth; bring to boil. Cover and reduce heat to low; cook 17 minutes. Remove lid and toss in 1/2 cup diced fresh pitted apricots, 1 tablespoon minced fresh basil and 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts. Taste; add salt, pepper as needed.

Chicken Breasts With Apricots, Ginger and Lime Zest
Yield: 4 servings
2 teaspoons butter
4 ripe apricots, pitted, cut in half if small, quartered if large
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 (about 6 ounces each) boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon finely minced fresh ginger
3 green onions, thinly sliced, white part only (reserve dark green part for garnish, if desired)
1 teaspoon very finely minced lime zest (colored part of peel only)
1 medium jalapeno chili, seeded, minced; see cook’s notes
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 to 2 tablespoons maple syrup or sugar-free maple syrup
Garnish: 1/3 cup toasted slivered almonds; see cook’s notes
Optional garnish: Finely sliced fresh chives
Cook’s notes: Use caution when working with fresh chilies. Upon completion wash hands and work surface thoroughly; do NOT touch face or eyes.
To toast almonds, place in single layer on baking sheet. Roast in 350-degree oven 2-3 minutes. Watch carefully because nuts burn easily.

1. In large nonstick skillet, melt butter on medium-high heat. Add apricots, cut-side down. Cook until lightly browned, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat; set aside.
2. In another large nonstick skillet, heat oil on medium-high heat. Season chicken with salt and pepper; add to skillet in single layer. Cook until nicely browned, about 4 minutes. Turn with tongs. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until chicken is cooked throughout and no pink color remains, about 9 minutes. Transfer chicken to plate.
3. To skillet used for chicken, add ginger, green onion, zest and chili; cook on medium heat about 30 seconds. Add wine and bring to boil, scraping up brown bits at bottom of pan. When wine has reduced to about 1/4 cup, add syrup and stir. Taste and add more salt and/or pepper as needed. Add chicken to reheat about 1 minute; add apricots and reheat just long enough to barely get them hot.
4. Place chicken on serving plate. Spoon sauce on top. Garnish with apricots, toasted almonds, and either sliced green portion of green onion or chives. Serve.
Nutritional information (per serving): Calories 440 (35 percent from fat); fat 17 g; protein

Apricot Custard Tart
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
1 baked 10 1/2-inch tart shell; see cook’s notes
About 5 ripe apricots (13 ounces), pitted
1 cup sugar
2 large egg yolks
3/4 cup heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Pinch of salt
1/4 cup slice almonds
Cook’s notes: To save time, use store-bought refrigerated pie crust, such as Pillsbury Pie Crusts (15-ounce package) or the equivalent at Trader Joe’s. There are 2 round sheets of dough in package. Press 1 into 10 1/2-inch tart pan with removable bottom (the one I use is a little deeper than the most common sized pan), folding over edge to reinforce sides with a double layer of dough. If it seems scrimpy, cut wedge from second sheet of dough in package and patch it in place where needed, pushing to seal. Or prepare pie crust from scratch. To bake, cover dough with sheet of waxed paper or parchment paper; add pie weights or uncooked beans or rice. Bake in 350-degree oven 15 minutes. Remove paper and weights. Bake additional 8 minutes, or until golden brown.

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Place baked tart shell on baking sheet; set aside.
2. Cut apricots into wedges about 3/4-inch thick; arrange in tart shell.
3. In medium bowl, combine sugar, yolks and cream. Whisk until combined. Stir in flour and salt. Carefully pour mixture over apricots. Sprinkle almonds over top.
4. Bake until custard is almost completely set, about 35 to 40 minutes. Best served slightly warm or at room temperature the same day it’s baked.
Nutritional information (per serving, assuming 8 servings): Calories 221(49.6 percent from fat); fat 12.2 g; protein 5.8 g; carbohydrates 21.8 g; fiber 1.7 g; sodium 252 mg; calcium 84 mg.
Source: adapted from “Four-Star Desserts” by Emily Luchetti (Harper Collins, $32.50)

Apricot and Mixed Berry Cobbler
Yield: 8 servings
Butter for greasing pan
For fruit:
2 1/2 pounds ripe apricots, pitted, halved if small, quartered if large
2 cups mixed berries, such as blueberries, blackberries and raspberries
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
3 to 4 tablespoons cornstarch depending on juiciness of fruit
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Biscuit topping:
2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold, cut into small pieces
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar for sprinkling
For serving: Ice cream
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly grease shallow 2-quart baking dish with butter; set aside.
2. Prepare filling: Place apricots in large bowl. Add berries, sugar, cornstarch and lemon juice. Use rubber spatula to gently toss until sugar and cornstarch are evenly distributed. Don’t be overly aggressive at this point or you will bruise fruit. Set aside.
3. Prepare biscuit topping: In separate large bowl, sift flour, sugar, salt and baking powder; stir with fork to blend. Use pastry cutter or 2 knives to cut in butter until largest lumps are about pea-sized (or combine dry ingredients in food processor and pulse once or twice, then add butter and pulse until largest lumps are pea-sized and transfer to bowl). 4. Give fruit one more gentle stir. Spoon into prepared dish, scraping juices, sugar and starch from bottom of bowl over fruit. Spread fruit to fill pan evenly.
5. Combine milk, cream and vanilla; pour over flour mixture. Use fork to stir for first few strokes, then use clean hands to gently rub liquid into flour mixture. Dough should be wet and sticky. Pinch off egg-sized lumps of gooey dough and drop onto fruit, eventually covering most of surface. A few little cracks between biscuits is fine (juices will bubble up in cracks and look beautiful). Sprinkle with 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar.
6. Bake in preheated oven 50 to 60 minutes or until juices from fruit are bubbling vigorously through cracks between biscuit topping and topping is puffed and golden. Cool on wire rack for at least 25 minutes before serving. Serve warm or at room temperature, alone or with scoop of vanilla ice cream. Nutritional information (per serving without ice cream): Calories 469 (60 percent from fat); fat 31.2 g; protein 25 g; carbohydrates 29.1 g; fiber 1.2 g; sodium 368 mg; calcium 20 mg.
Source: Adapted from “In The Sweet Kitchen” by Reagan Daley (Artisan, $35)

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Imagine a restaurateur’s delight to be featured in Jay Leno’s monologue your first week in business. Bruxie’s “bold fold” waffle concept intrigued the entertainer, as it did the lines of customers queuing up at the Old Towne Orange eatery.

Dean Simon, Bruxie’s managing partner, found out fast that the idea for gourmet waffle sandwiches could capture a loyal audience. Now there is a Bruxie in Brea, with another to open soon in Rancho Santa Margarita.  His two sons, both Orange County college students, work at Bruxie, pitching in as cashiers and runners.

Simon agreed to bring his waffle iron and cook with me in my home kitchen and tape a video. I knew he couldn’t share Bruxie’s recipe for its signature waffle, that not-too-sweet, crispy- light yeasty wonder that teams so well with sweet or savory filling. That would be giving the store away.

But he explained that he turned one of the popular filling into The Bruxie Salad after many guests requested a gluten-free option.

As with everything on the menu, the salad utilized the highest quality ingredients, such as Laura Chenel goat cheese from Sonoma, organic wild arugula, and super-fresh herbs. Whether waffle-folded, or assembled on a large dinner plate, the mixture of greens, roasted mushrooms, grilled chicken, herbs and sun-dried tomatoes is delectable.

The Bruxie Salad
Yield: 2 large servings
Balsamic Syrup:
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
Lemon Vinaigrette:
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Roasted Mushrooms:
1 pound cremini mushrooms, stemmed, cut in half if large
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil combined with 2 tablespoons canola oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
Goat Cheese:
8 ounces soft, log-style goat cheese, room temperature
3 tablespoons sour cream
1 tablespoon minced fresh basil
Salad:
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, about 4 ounces each, grilled, chilled
2 cups roasted cremini mushrooms
Optional: 1/3 cup drained, patted dry sun-dried tomatoes (packed in oil), cut into narrow strips
4 cups chopped romaine lettuce
2 cups baby arugula
Optional garnish: fresh chives
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Prepare balsamic “syrup:” In a small nonreactive saucepan combine balsamic vinegar and sugar. Cook on low heat until reduced to about 1/2 cup. Set aside to cool.
2. Prepare vinaigrette: In a small bowl or a glass measuring cup with a handle whisk juice, salt and pepper. When salt dissolves, add oil in thin steam, whisking constantly. Set aside.

3. Roast mushrooms: On a rimmed baking sheet, toss mushrooms, salt, pepper, oil and thyme. Roast in preheated oven for 20 minutes or until tender and nicely browned.
4. Prepare goat cheese: In medium bowl, combine cheese, sour cream and basil. Stir to combine and set aside.
5. Toss romaine and arugula. Stir dressing and add enough to lightly coat leaves; toss. Divide between 2 large plates. Cut chicken on the bias and place atop greens. Add a large scoop of mushrooms next to chicken (refrigerate leftover mushrooms and use with steamed vegetables or more salads). If desired, add sun-dried tomato strips. Pinch off portions of cheese mixture and scatter over salad (refrigerate leftover cheese and use atop other salads or sliced tomatoes or crackers). Put cooled balsamic syrup in squeeze bottle and drizzle syrup over salad.
Source: Dean Simon, managing partner, Bruxie – Gourmet Waffle Sandwiches, Orange, Brea and soon in Rancho Santa Margarita

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Luscious Melissa’s baby kiwi are available March to mid-April, September to October. These fuzz-free babies are edible, skin-and-all.

MELISSA’S TIP:  Baby Kiwi are delicious combined with mixed berries and a mint-infused maple syrup, especially atop crisp waffles. To make the fragrant syrup, bring 1/2 cup water to boil and stir in 1 cup fresh mint leaves and 1/2 cup high quality maple syrup. Cover and place off heat; steep for 30 minutes. Strain and toss with mixed berries and baby kiwi. Spoon over hot waffles, french toast or pancakes. If you like, spread a little mascarpone on the waffle or french toast before adding the fruit.

        cathythomascooks.com

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85C: (bottom to top – Milk Pudding Bun ($2.40), Lemon Taro Swirl ($1.60), Berry Multi-grain Loaf ($4.90) and Brioche ($3.25)

Diamond Jamboree, a vibrant, bustling retail center in Irvine (Jamboree at Anton), features a wide array of dining destinations. It’s unique in the variety of Asian cuisines that are represented in its eateries. Here’s a small sample:

My favorites at the bustling 85C Bakery, the Milk Pudding Bun (served piping hot) and the Lemon Taro Swirl (generally I’m not a taro fan, but this is lovely). Brioche = a little too sweet for my taste – for me, brioche should taste egg-y and yeast-y rather than sugary.

Chef Hung, a sparkling eatery that showcases the kind of “snacks” featured in a Taiwanese  night market, offers some delectable dishes that are new to me. Loved this blanched Taiwanese lettuce topped with a ground pork sauce.

Or the #52, steamed pork dumplings ($5.50) – one chew releases flavorful broth from the dumplings interior. I like to make a little sauce in my bowl with chili paste and soy sauce; each dumpling takes a little swim in the spicy mix before I devour it.

And I was eager to try the soup with braised beef and noodles (you get to select the noodle you like – I like WIDE noodles) and tomato. The broth is spiked with anka, an statin-like herb that my doctor has me taking on a daily basis (red yeast rice that I buy at Costco). Soup better than pills? Well it sure tasted better.

At The Balcony, there are authentic Taiwanese dishes plus a wide assortment of individual hot pots. Food and drink specials are served 7 days a week. The Shaved Snow had a dreamy texture and taste. I turned down a very interesting cocktail and ate snow instead.

Stinky Tofu: I heard about this recently on NPR, and had to try it. Here the odoriferous fermented tofu is served battered and fried; it’s accompanied by an appealing sauce and a Taiwanese version of kimchee.

Stinky tofu is less stinky when fried. The fermented tofu is a popular snack in Southeast Asia, China, Taiwan, and Malaysia. I found the trick is to make a well in the cube with a chopstick and pour sauce into the recess.

cathythomascooks.com

I’m not a jealous person. But when I saw Chef Zov Karamardian’s home vegetable garden, I was overcome with envy. Just steps from her kitchen, cucumbers, tomatoes and herbs flourished, alongside a spectrum of lettuces and greens. Espalier fruit trees snuggled walls. Fully-bloomed artichokes showed off their stunning buds. (Photo above shows Zov sitting in her home vegetable garden)

Zov and I have been friends for decades, so when I confessed my garden jealousy, she gave me one of her signature matter-of-fact solutions.

“You can do this too,” she said in an emphatic tone. “Call Kathryn Agresto, that’s what I did. I know you don’t have much room. But make it happen.”

And so I did.

Good-bye palm trees, impatiens and geraniums. Hello edible landscaping.

Kathryn Agresto is a culinary gardener who specializes in chef’s gardens. I met her a few years ago when I wrote a story about Park Ave, the acclaimed restaurant in Stanton that has 4,000 square feet of vegetable gardens and fruit trees. Agresto masterminded the gardens, establishing the restaurant’s 14 raised beds and 2,000 square feet of in-ground garden.

It’s a working garden; everything produced is used in the restaurant.

But it’s so beautiful and popular with guests that executive chef-managing partner David Slay opened “Il Garage,” a bistro housed in the spacious garage outside the restaurant. A space that overlooks the bountiful raised beds.

It’s not just her green thumb and tireless work ethic that makes Agresto so successful. She combines an artistic eye with her astute palate.  She has the ability to create “eye candy” beauty while selecting the most delectable produce. Fruits and vegetables tailored to a chef’s menu preferences.

The gardens she created at Studio, the seaside restaurant at Montage Laguna, echo Executive Chef Craig Strong’s love of modern French cuisine and garden-fresh ingredients. Fruit trees, berry bushes and strawberries showoff next to lavender, basil, and fingerling potatoes.

Because the chef has solid working relationships with local growers who provide most of the restaurant’s produce, much of Agresto’s plantings mirror those crops.

Strong, an avid home gardener, says that guests get giddy over the garden, especially when attending one of his five-course Chef’s Table Dinners in which every dish showcases produce from the garden.

“Adults act like joyful little kids when I send them out to the garden to pick produce for their dinner,” Strong says about his Chef’s Table events. “So many of us have lost touch with where food comes from.  The garden has an incredible aroma, too. With fresh-picked basil or sage, the scent affects the taste.

“And watching things grow makes you appreciate farmers.”

Yes, I appreciate farmers. But on a more personal level, I appreciate how “my farmer” Agresto brought a farm-of-sorts to my Huntington Beach land-challenged home. (Photo shows photographer Nick Koon shooting Kathryn in my garden.)

Freckles romaine, sweet green lettuce dotted with splashes of burgundy, cuddle next to Bloomsdale spinach, a variety that combines bold spinach flavor with a high degree of sweetness.  African Blue basil grows next to strawberries, watermelon radishes next to chard. A guava tree sends its branches out over a bed of magenta mustard.

It’s as beautiful as it is delicious.  Want more? Kathryn’s Website is www.nativesoilgardens.com.

Chef David Slay loves to leave the roots attached to lettuces. It gives the greens an appealing, just-picked appearance, but requires devotion to proper washing. In this dish he uses roots-on mache, a dark green lettuce that clusters in small loose heads. Bright green and tender, the delicate leaves have pronounced sweetness and subtle nuttiness. Sometimes it is labeled “lamb’s lettuce,” a name acquired due to the leaf’s resemblance to the shape of a lamb’s tongue. It is sold in cellophane bags at Trader Joe’s.

Park Ave’s Whole Baby Mache with Spring Chicken, Black Strap Molasses Marinade
Yield: 4 servings
1 broiler-fryer chicken, about 2 1/2 pounds, quartered (or preferred cut)
1/4 cup black strap molasses, unsulphured
1 clove garlic, chopped
1/2 bunch cilantro leaves
Juice of 1 lemon and minced zest of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Cracked pepper to taste
8 small heads mache lettuce with roots, about 8 cups
1 pound assorted small heirloom tomatoes
Extra-virgin olive oil, enough to lightly coat tomatoes
Sea salt to taste
1. In a large, nonreactive bowl or large zipper-style plastic bag, combine molasses, garlic, cilantro, lemon juice and zest, soy sauce, mustard and pepper; stir. Add chicken. Cover (or seal) and refrigerate two hours. Remove chicken from marinade and broil or grill until thoroughly cooked.
2. While meat is cooking, roast tomatoes. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place a large sheet of aluminum foil on baking sheet, with sides of foil extending over the sides of the sheet. Place tomatoes on foil and sprinkle with enough olive oil to lightly coat and sea salt to taste; fold foil to enclose tomatoes. Roast tomatoes about 5 to 7 minutes or skin shrivels and blisters a little
3.  Place the chicken at the center of 4 plates. Place mache over the chicken with the roots at 7:00 o’clock. Cautiously open foil (opening away from you for steam to escape) and pour tomatoes and oil over the mache.

Nutrition information (per serving): 360 calories, 38 percent of calories from fat, 15 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 40 mg cholesterol, 40 g carbohydrates, 16 g protein, 552 mg sodium, 3g fiber Source: David Slay, executive chef and managing partner at Park Ave and Il Garage, Stanton

Chef Craig Strong uses African Basil in the mixture he rubs on lamb racks before roasting. He says the basil tastes like a combination of basil and mint, a delicious addition to lamb.

Studio’s African Basil Crusted Lamb Rack with Studio Garden Vegetables
Yield: 4 servings
2 racks of lamb
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 cloves roasted garlic
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup African basil leaves
1/2 cup chopped parsley
1 cup brioche bread crumbs
Baby Carrots with Cumin:
2 tablespoons butter
24 baby carrots, peeled
1 pinch cumin seeds
Sea salt to taste
1/4 cup water
Fingerling potatoes:
2 tablespoons butter
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs fresh thyme
1 garlic clove
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Garnish: 12 sprigs African Basil flowers
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large ovenproof skillet heat oil and butter on medium-high heat. Season lamb with salt and pepper. Brown lamb on all sides for about 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside.  Puree garlic and mustard; brush on lamb. In a food processor, mince basil and parsley; add breadcrumbs and pulse to minced. Pass through a sieve. Generously coat lamb with bread crumb mixture. Place lamb in preheated oven for 20 minutes. Let stand 5 minutes before carving.
2. Meanwhile, prepare vegetables. In a medium-large deep ovenproof skillet melt 2 tablespoons butter; cook over medium-low heat, swirling pan occasionally, until butter is browned and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add carrots, cumin and sea salt. Place in 350 degree oven until just fork tender; shaking handle occasionally to redistribute carrots (careful, remember the skillet handle is hot). In food processor, puree 8 of the carrots.
3. Prepare potatoes. In a medium, deep ovenproof skillet heat 2 tablespoons butter; cook over medium-low heat, swirling pan occasionally, until butter is browned and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add potatoes, sea salt, pepper, thyme, bay leaves and garlic clove; toss. Place in a 350-degree oven and roast until fork tender. Remove garlic, bay leaves, and the twiggy portion of the thyme sprigs.
4. Spread about 1 tablespoon of carrot puree on each plate. Arrange 4 carrots and 4 potatoes on top of puree. Carve meat, cutting between bones and divide between plates. Garnish top of vegetables with 3 sprigs of basil flowers.
Nutrition information (per serving): 660 calories, 45 percent of calories from fat, 32 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 30 g carbohydrates, 63 g protein, 640 mg sodium, 2 g fiber  Source: Craig Strong, executive chef of Studio, Montage Laguna, Laguna Beach

I am enchanted with the freckles romaine lettuces in my garden. They taste a little sweet and have tender textures. But probably more than anything, I love the way they look, apple-green leaves dotted with burgundy splotches. Hearts of romaine, cut in half lengthwise and arranged cut-side up, are a good substitute. As for the dressing, it is my late mother’s blue cheese vinaigrette recipe. That dressing is one of the first things I learned to “cook” (I was so small I had to stand on a stool to reach the butcher block). Here I augment the dressing with kumquat slices from my espalier tree in my yard.

Cathy’s Freckles Romaine Salad with Kumquats and Mom’s Blue Cheese Vinaigrette
Yield: 4 servings
Harriett’s Blue Cheese Vinaigrette:
1 cup safflower oil or extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces crumbled blue cheese
1/3 to 1/2 cup cider vinegar (depending on how tart you like dressing)
1 teaspoon garlic salt
Freshly ground black pepper
6 kumquats, sliced, seeds removed
1 to 2 heads freckle romaine or 1 or 2 hearts of romaine cut in half lengthwise
4 to 6 leaves of Bloomsdale spinach or common spinach
1 ripe pear, cored, sliced into wedges
Optional: 2 slices bacon, cooked crisp, drained, crumbled
Garnish: 2 sprigs fresh basil, preferably with blooms
Cook’s notes: If desired, just before serving, remove the amount of dressing you think you’ll be using and add 1 tablespoon of minced fresh tarragon or basil. If you add the herbs to the entire mixture and then store, the herbs lose their fresh taste.
1, Combine oil and blue cheese in small bowl or a glass measuring cup with a handle. Using a fork, mash about 1/2 of the blue cheese into the oil, pressing fork against side of bowl or measuring cup (the oil will be bluish when you finish). Stir in the vinegar, garlic salt and ground black pepper. Add kumquat slices; set aside. This recipe will make more than you will use. Dressing can be stored for one week in the refrigerator, well-sealed in a non-reactive container.
2. Make a shallow trim on the root end of the lettuce, deep enough so that the larger leaves disconnect but the smaller, interior leaves stay attached together. Arrange on large plate or platter and surround with spinach leaves. Place pear wedges at base of lettuce. Stir dressing. Spoon on just enough dressing to lightly coat the lettuce leaves, capturing as many kumquat slices with the spoon as possible. If using, scatter crumbled bacon on top. Garnish with basil.
3. Bring salad to table and show it off. Using a serrated knife, cut lettuce and spinach crosswise into bite-size pieces and serve.
Nutrition information (per serving using a total of 1/4 of dressing for the salad, no bacon): 300 calories, 49 percent of calories from fat, 16 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 38 mg cholesterol, 3` g carbohydrates, 7 g protein, 420 mg sodium, 3.5 g fiber

Zov’s Sautéed Chard with Lemon and Pine Nuts
Yield: 6 servings
2 bunches rainbow chard, about 1 1/2 pounds, washed in cold water
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1/2 lemon
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
1. Trim ends of chard stems. Cut the center vein and remaining stem for the green leaves. Coarsely chop leaves and cut stems in slices, keeping leaves and stems in separate piles.
2. Heat oil in deep, 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic; cook just until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chard stem slices and cook until they are tender-crisp, stirring often, about 8 minutes. Stir in salt, black pepper and dried red pepper flakes. Add half of chard leaves and toss to coat. As chard cooks and begins to wilt, add remaining chard leaves. Continue cooking until chard wilts but still has a vibrant green color, about 3 minutes. Make sure you do not overcook the chard. Drain any excess liquid, if necessary.
3. Transfer chard to serving platter and squeeze lemon over the chard. Sprinkle with pine nuts.
Nutrition information (per serving): 280 calories, 47 percent of calories from fat, 14.6 g fat, 3g saturated fat, 28 mg cholesterol, 35 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 320 mg sodium, 5 g fiber
Source: “Simply Zov” ($39) by Zov Karamardian, executive chef-owner Zov’s Bistro and Bakery in Tustin, Zov’s Cafes in Irvine, Newport Coast and John Wayne Airport.

(Thank you to Cindy Yamanaka and Nick Koon for the beautiful photographs.)

Mustard from my garden. Eye candy, right? And it’s perky delicious.

More than twenty local chefs showed off their offbeat tacos at the 19^th Annual SOS Wild & Crazy Taco Night Thursday.

The Share Our Selves’ event was held at the charity’s headquarters in Costa Mesa. Share Our Selves, or SOS, is a nonprofit organization that provides food and medical, dental and financial aid to those in need.

Here’s “a taste video.”

An additional dose of mayhem; part two. Have a look.

Most often, tacos are a familiar mix of meat, sauce and veggies – straightforward trios of complementary flavors clothed in warm tortillas. But this charity fundraiser seems to bring out a chef’s adventurous side.

Culinary joviality reigns. Chefs grin and guests gobble. Chef Alan Greeley, The Golden Truffle, cooked up some smoked alligator tacos.

Chef Alessandro Pirozzi, Alessa, made a filling of braised oxtail with cipolline agro dolce (but, as with the other chefs, you gotta watch the video to hear him talk about it …  so good). And Chefs Tanya Fuqua and Mark Cleveland, Avanti Cafe, whipped up some organic corn polenta with perky slaw dressed with harissa sauce and zhug.

Chef Deb Schneider, SOL, made roasted sweet potato and black bean tacos (recipe follows).

Chef Greg Daniels, taco asylum, threw caution to the wind and tuned up his tacos with all “things” duck, including duck “fries” (testicles).

Chef Franco Barone, Il Barone Ristorante, made small “burrito-esque” cannelloni.

Chef Paul Buchanan, Primal Alchemy Catering, made turkey mole with sweet corn pudding and prickly pear crema.

And there’s more. Chef Carlito Jacson, Yard House, made carnitas with fresh pineapple and chicharones.

His brother, Chef Louie Jocson, The Red Table, made yuzu crab ceviche wrapped in thinly sliced Bordeaux radish “wrappers.”

Pastry Chef Rachel Klemek, Blackmarket Bakery, made glorious desserts filled with fresh fruit.

Chef David Man, Island Hotel, filled tacos with Al Pastor chicken and cotija cheese.

Chef Marco Zapien, Melissa’s Produce. made vegetarian chile verde tacos with soy, onions, pepper, cabbage and cotija.

And Chef Ryan Wilson, Five Crowns, made grassfed-steak tartar with horseradish hollandaise and  upland cress.

For the camera, I had great fun talking to the chefs to find out about their ingredients and techniques. Be sure to watch the video to find out some of their secrets. Meanwhile, here’s a recipe from Chef Deborah Schneider, who prepared delectable sweet potato-spiked tacos at the event.

Sol’s Roasted Sweet Potato and Black Bean Tacos

Yield: 6 servings, 12 tacos

1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided use

1 white onion, diced

1 large poblano chili or green bell pepper, seeded and diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided use

1 medium orange sweet potato, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 cup black beans, drained and rinsed

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

12 (6-inch) corn tortillas

Vegetable oil

2 cups (6 ounces) shredded Oaxaca or Monterey Jack cheese

Chipotle sauce

Pico de gallo (or fresh chunky salsa)

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Heat a heavy ovenproof skillet (cast iron is ideal) over medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil to pan, then onion and poblano chili or green pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly caramelized. Stir in garlic and 1 teaspoon salt; set aside.

2. In a medium bowl, toss sweet potato with remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Add to skillet and cook, stirring, 1 minute, then place pan in oven and roast 15 minutes (be careful, remember that the handle is hot).

3. Meanwhile, prepare tortillas dorado: Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat. Brush 1 side of a tortilla lightly with oil and place oil side down in pan. Scatter a generous spoonful of cheese over center of tortilla and cook until cheese is melted and tortilla is lightly golden on the underside but still flexible. Place on a cookie sheet and repeat with remaining tortillas and cheese. When finished, lightly oil a piece of foil and use it to cover tortillas.

4. Remove skillet from oven and stir in black beans and black pepper (beans will warm through from the heat of the pan). Top each tortilla with sweet potato mixture, a drizzle of chipotle sauce, and a spoonful of pico de gallo (if using).

Source: Deborah Schneider, executive chef-partner SOL, Newport Beach, as seen in Schneider’s article in O, The Oprah Magazine, Feb 2012

         cathythomascooks.com

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It’s a great time to bake up some blueberry treats; California bountiful blueberry season starts now and continues through June.

Here’s one of the blueberry bushes in my front yard. So, how will I use them?

Sweets need to be more than just sweet to interest my palate. There needs to be an interesting contrast in flavors, such as the addition of something a little tart and tangy but with a nice edge of sweetness.

Blueberries fill that role in baked goods in a delectable way, their sweet-tart juices bleeding into batters as they bake. Or, used raw as a alluring blue garnish, they offer crisp, sweet-tart distinction.

April is the start of the California blueberry crop, a short season that generally ends in June, when domestic blueberries are sourced from Oregon and Washington through early July. East Coast blueberries are picked June through August. That region is the source for wild blueberries that are very sweet and unlike cultivated varieties, are blue inside and out. Wild blueberries are delicious, but way more expensive.

The rest of the year most blueberries found in our marketplace are grown in Mexico, Central American, South America and New Zealand.

I like the idea of using California grown blueberries over the next couple of months, both because they are a more local source and because the price is often lower. Here are some tips for buying, storing and baking with fresh blueberries:

How to buy: Look for deep-blue berries with a silvery bloom on the exterior which is a blueberry’s natural protective coating. Lift the see-through container up and tilt it back and forth. If the berries move freely and there are no signs of mold, they’re fresh.

How to store:  Do NOT wash before storing. Remove bruised or moldy berries and refrigerate dry berries in the clamshell container they came in; the container has holes at the top and bottom to help air to circulate (which helps to prevent deterioration). Rinse with cold water before using.

To freeze: Place them in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and place in freezer. When frozen, transfer to freezer zipper-style plastic bags (pushing out the air before sealing) or in freezer containers. If using frozen in baked goods, additional baking time is usually required.

Cooking with blueberries: When cooked, fresh blueberries sometimes change color. Berries often turn red when combined with acids such as lemon juice or vinegar. In batters containing large amounts of baking soda, blueberries may turn a greenish-blue. These color changes do not affect their flavor.

For pancakes or waffles: Blueberries should be added as soon as the batter is poured on the griddle or iron. If frozen blueberries are used, make sure they are heated through before serving.

Fresh blueberries and raspberries make tasty and colorful garnishes in this red velvet layer cake, both inside pressed into the filling and shown off  atop the frosting. The stunning contrast of red cake and fluffy white cream cheese frosting has made this treat a southern tradition for festive occasions. Mixing a touch of cocoa powder with the buttermilk and vinegar creates a reddish brown color, but it’s the red food coloring that earns this cake its name. For an even deeper red color, add an extra tablespoon of food coloring.

Red Velvet Cake with Blueberries and Raspberries
Yield: 14 servings
Cake:
2 1/4 cups sifted cake flour (sifted, then measured)
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk
1 tablespoon red food coloring
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 large eggs
Frosting:
2 (8-ounce packages) cream cheese, room temperature
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2 1/2 cups powdered sugar
3 (1/2-pint) containers fresh raspberries
3 (1/2 pint) containers fresh blueberries
1. For the cake:  Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour two 9-inch-diameter cake pans with one and one-half –inch high sides. Sift flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into medium bowl. Whisk buttermilk, food coloring, vinegar, and vanilla in small bowl to blend. Using electric mixer, beat sugar and butter in large bowl until well blended. Beat in eggs 1 at a time. Beat in dry ingredients in 4 additions alternately with buttermilk mixture in 3 additions, scraping down sides of bowl with a rubber spatula as needed. Divide batter between prepared pans.
2. Bake cakes until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 27 minutes. Cool in pans on racks 10 minutes. Cut around pan sides to loosen cakes. Turn cakes out onto racks; cool completely.
3. For the frosting: Using electric mixer, beat cream cheese and butter in large bowl until smooth. Beat in vanilla. Add sugar and beat until smooth, scraping down sides of bowl with a rubber spatula as needed. Place 1 cake layer, flat side up, on platter. Spread 1 cup frosting over. Arrange 1 container raspberries and 1/2 container blueberries atop frosting, pressing lightly to adhere. Top with second cake layer, flat side down. Spread remaining frosting over top and sides of cake. Arrange remaining berries decoratively over top of cake.
Do Ahead: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover with cake dome and refrigerate. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour before serving.
Nutrition information (per serving): 330 calories, 48 percent of calories from fat, 17.6 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 75 mg cholesterol, 40 g carbohydrates, 3 g protein, 310 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Source: “Bon Appétit Desserts” by Barbara Fairchild (Andrews McMeel Publishing, $40)

The idea for dipping warm muffin crowns in a little melted butter then in cinnamon-spiked sugar, comes from cooking expert Marion Cunningham in her 1987 “Breakfast Book” (Knopf, out of print). The process creates a beautiful cap on the muffins and I like the way the cinnamon tastes (I often double the amount of cinnamon from 1/2 teaspoon to 1 teaspoon).  Some bakers like to transfer batter to muffin tin using a large spoon sprayed with nonstick cooking spray. That system works fine. I like to use my mother’s old orange-handled ice cream scoop that measures out a little less than one-quarter cup of batter. Note that at the end of Step #3 you shouldn’t see large pockets of flour, but a small, occasional small bit of flour may remain; do NOT overmix.

Blueberry Muffins
Yield: 12
Butter for greasing muffin tin
2 cups (10 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 large egg
1 cup (7 ounces) sugar
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted, cooled slightly
1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) sour cream
1 1/2 cups (7 1/2 to 8 ounces) fresh or frozen blueberries
Topping:
4 tablespoons butter (1/2 stick), melted
1/2 cup sugar mixed with 1/2 teaspoon to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a standard 12-cup muffin tin with butter and set aside.
2. Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt in medium bowl until combined. Whisk egg in a second medium bowl until well-combined and light-colored, about 20 seconds. Add sugar to egg and whisk vigorously until thick and homogenous, about 30 seconds; add melted butter in 2 or 3 additions, whisking to combine after each addition. Add sour cream in 2 additions, whisking just to combine.
3. Add berries to dry ingredients and gently toss just to combine. Add the sour cream mixture and fold with rubber spatula until batter comes together and the berries are evenly distributed, 25 to 30 seconds. (Small spots of flour may remain and the batter will be thick. Do not overmix.)
4. Using a large spoon sprayed with nonstick cooking spray to prevent sticking (or an ice cream scoop that is a little smaller than 1/4 cup), divide the batter among the greased muffin cups. Bake until muffins are light golden brown and a toothpick or skewer inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes, rotating the pan from front to back halfway through the baking time. Invert muffins onto wire cooling rack, stand upright and cool 5 minutes.
5. Place melted 1/4 cup butter in a shallow bowl. Place sugar-cinnamon sugar in a second shallow bowl. Dip warm top of a muffin in butter, then in sugar. Stand upright on cooling rack to finish cooling or serve warm. Repeat with remaining muffins. (I like to sprinkle a little extra cinnamon sugar on the muffins after they are placed back on the cooling rack after their “dipping”.)
Nutrition information (per serving):  350 calories, 49 percent of calories from fat,  21 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 75 mg cholesterol, 38 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 408 mg sodium, 1.8 g fiber
Source: adapted from “Baking Illustrated” by the editors of Cook’s Illustrated magazine (America’s Test Kitchen, $35)

cathythomascooks.com

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Yeeeeeee-hah! 

Trust me, you can believe Steven Raichlen. Beer-Can Chicken is succulent and moist inside, with a luscious crisp exterior enhanced with his tasty rub and the scent of smoke.

He says that barbecuing a bird perched upright straddling a half-full brew container produces the best chicken he’s ever eaten.

OK, maybe it doesn’t sound respectful to insert a beer can in the south end of a north-bound chicken. But the results are so delicious.

(Here, you see Raichlen in a photo taken in my front yard, cooking up beer-can wonders on my Weber kettle ‘cue. You can watch him work his magic on his TV show series on PBS – “Primal Grilling”)

I use Raichlen’s formula sourced from his fourth grilling book, “Beer-Can Chicken – and 74 Other Offbeat Recipes for the Grill” (Workman, $12.95). The book offers delectable recipes for chicken riding cans.

Use a chimney starter to get the lump charcoal ignited; it’s a metal cylinder with a handle that’s kindled with crumpled newspaper (heaven forbid the food section). That makes it easy to get the rig going.

His directions make it easy. And somehow two people working together seem to make it easier and a whole lot more fun!

Note that racks are sold that hold the beer can and bird in place.

I also think that heatproof gloves and long tongs are must-haves.

JOIN IN THE GRILLING RECIPE CONTEST FUN! Great prizes, including generous gift certificates at THE MEAT HOUSE (Costa Mesa) AND lunch with me at THE WINERY restaurant (Tustin). 

To enter the contest, go to www.facebook.com/OCRegisterEats and look for the link to the contest.

Basic Beer-Can Chicken
Yield: 2-4 servings
1 (12-ounce) can beer
1 (3 1/2- to 4-pound) chicken
2 tablespoons All-Purpose Barbecue Rub (see recipe) or your favorite commercial rub
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
2 cups wood chips or chunks (preferably hickory or cherry), soaked 1 hour in water and/or beer to cover, then drained
1. Pop tab off beer can. Pour half of beer (3/4 cup) over soaking wood chips or chunks, or reserve for another use. Use church-key-style opener to poke 2 additional holes in top of can. Set aside.
2. Remove packet of giblets from body cavity of chicken and set aside for another use. Remove and discard fat just inside body and neck cavities. Rinse chicken in cold water and drain and blot dry, inside and out, with paper towels.
3.Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of rub inside body cavity and 1/2 teaspoon inside neck cavity. Drizzle oil over outside of bird and rub or brush it all over skin. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon rub and rub it all over skin. Spoon remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons of rub into beer through hole in top of can. Don’t worry if beer foams up; this is normal.
4. Hold bird upright, with opening of body cavity at bottom, and lower it onto beer can so the can fits into the cavity. Pull chicken legs forward to form a sort of tripod, so bird stands upright. The rear leg of the tripod is the beer can.
5. Tuck tips of wings behind chicken’s back.
6. Set up grill for indirect grilling (if using charcoal grill, dump or rake glowing coals in 2 piles at opposite sides of grill and place drip pan in middle; if using 2-burner gas grill, light one side and put chicken on unlit side). If using gas grill, place wood chips or chunks in smoker bowl or in smoke pouch and preheat on high until you see smoke, then reduce heat to medium.
7. When ready to cook, if using charcoal grill, toss all wood chips or chunks on coals. Stand chicken up in center of hot grate over drip pan and away from heat (if using charcoal grill).
8. Cover grill and cook chicken until skin is dark golden brown and very crisp, and meat is cooked through (about 180 degrees on instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest part of thigh, but not touching bone), 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. If using charcoal grill, you’ll need to add 12 fresh coals per side after 1 hour. If chicken skin starts to brown too much, loosely tent bird with aluminum foil.
9. Using long tongs, hold chicken by can and, using another set of tongs (to steady chicken) carefully transfer chicken and can in upright position to platter. Present bird to your guests. Let chicken rest 5 minutes. Carefully lift chicken off can: Work over sink or roasting pan to catch any liquid. Wearing heatproof gloves, hold chicken slightly at angle with 1 hand, carefully pull out can with other hand (you may need to twist or wiggle it to loosen it). To prevent burns, take care not to spill hot beer. Or, you can hold chicken with 1 set of tongs and remove can with another set of tongs. Halve, quarter or carve chicken and serve.

All-Purpose Barbecue Rub
Yield:3/4 cup.
1/4 cup coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1/4 cup dark brown sugar
1/4 cup sweet paprika
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
Cook’s note: When using rub, be careful not to contaminate it. Scoop what you need from container; do not touch uncooked chicken with spoon and return spoon to container.
1.Put salt, brown sugar, paprika and pepper in small bowl and stir to mix. Your fingers actually work better for mixing rub than spoon or whisk does.
2.Store rub in airtight jar away from heat and light; it will keep at least 6 months.

BEER-CANNING 101

• Can-do? Use seamless aluminum cans. Avoid old-fashioned soldered cans, the ones with a visible seam at the bottom.
• Taste that beverage? Beer imparts a delicate, malty flavor to chicken. Raichlen says that soft drinks and fruit juices add “their own subtle essences.”
• No-alcohol guests? If your guests don’t drink alcohol, use soft drinks or fruit juice. Raichlen says canned iced tea tastes great with chicken; cola does, too.
• Rub now, rub later? There are two ways to use a rub: as a seasoning or as a cure. For a milder flavor, apply rub just before grilling. For stronger “cured” flavor, rub as much as 24 hours in advance, cover and refrigerate.
• Vertical roaster gizmo? Some folks like to use a vertical roasting device. It can either support the beer can itself or serve as a receptacle for beer or other liquids. You don’t need one unless you’re nervous about the can tipping.

             cathythomascooks.com

Avanti Café’s executive chef and co-owner Mark Cleveland prepares Zhug, an herbaceous hot sauce that adds pizzazz to, well, just about everything. Read on …

Cleveland, executive chef and co-owner of Avanti Café in Costa Mesa, has a knack for creating vibrant flavors in vegetarian and vegan dishes. From his crunchy Asian noodles to a wide array of pizzas and hearty salads, he builds delightful palate surprise into every dish.

The video shows how he makes Avanti’s Zhug, a picante bright-green puree that adds delectability to everything from veggie burgers to hummus, grilled fish to brown rice.

Cleveland and co-owner Tanya Fuqua sell it in take-home jars to guests who just can’t get enough of it at the eatery (where he dollops it atop several dishes, including the “Hot Tacos”).

Avanti’s zhug (also spelled “skhug”) showcases fresh green chilies, fruit juices and spices including cardamom and caraway seeds, plus a generous amount of fresh green herbs. The taste is a blend of spicy-hot balanced with tart-sweet citrus and straightforward herbaceous notes.

Zhug hot sauce originated in Yemen and has become a staple of Israeli cuisine, where it is widely used as a table condiment. Cleveland  uses Serrano chilies. I adapt his recipe to use large jalapenos instead (yes, I am a sissy). If you prefer sauces on the really, really on the mild side use Anaheim chilies (photo shows Anaheim above the ruler, a large jalapeno below). You may want to start by using half Serrano chilies and half jalapenos. Note that the chilies are NOT seeded, nor are the veins removed for this recipe.

The recipe makes about 2 quarts and can be divided up into small containers and frozen. Place it in ice cube trays to freeze, if you like, then pop out the “cubes” and freeze in a zipper-style bag. Note that freezing decreases the hotness. Or if you prefer, reduce the ingredients amounts by half and end up with only about one quart.

Take a spoonful and mix it with plain Greek yogurt to create a quick dip for veggies or a cold sauce for grilled fish.

And I will admit that I used it recently to doctor up a can of vegetable beef soup when unexpected guests turned up for lunch and my larder was empty. The company had no idea they were eating soup from a can and asked for the recipe. Hail to the secret zhug soup.

And when you drop by Avanti Cafe, be sure to sample one of their luscious made-to-order pizzas. Yum-oh-lah. Now here’s the recipe:

Avanti’s Zhug (adapted from Yemeni Hot Sauce)
Yield: about 2 quarts
8 bunches fresh cilantro, rinsed
3 bunches fresh Italian parsley, rinsed, thick stems cut off
Coarse salt for salting water, about 1 tablespoon
10 garlic cloves, peeled
1/2 pound fresh Serrano chilies with seeds, stems removed, each cut in half, see cook’s notes
3 tablespoons ground cardamom
2 tablespoons caraway seeds
2 tablespoons coarse salt (kosher or sea)
2 1/4 teaspoons citric acid, see cook’s notes
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1 cup fresh orange juice
1/2 cup fresh grapefruit juice
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups brewed hot green tea or hot water
Cook’s notes: I like a slightly milder version, so I use 6 large jalapeno chilies (cut in quarters with the seeds) instead of Serrano chilies. If you want an even milder sauce, use Anaheim chilies. The citric acid is optional; it keeps the sauce from discoloring. I use “Fruit Fresh” – a product sold in the canning section of the supermarket that is primarily citric acid. Use caution when working with fresh chilies; wash hands and work surface thoroughly upon completion and do NOT touch eyes or face.

1. Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a 4- to 6-quart pan on high heat. Add salt to the water. Add parsley and cilantro in two batches, pushing it down with tongs and boiling for about 5 to 10 seconds to wilt it.  Drain both batches well in colander. Coarsely chop and place in large bowl. Add all remaining ingredients to bowl except the hot tea. Stir to combine.

2. Working in 6 to 8 batches, puree in blender, adding a little hot tea to each batch before blending. If you have a heavy-duty blender, you can puree it in 3 to 4 batches, adding hot tea to each batch. Stir batches together to combine.

            cathythomascooks.com

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